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Sewing machine advice for Leather Jackets, Trousers, and Shirts

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Hello, 

First, thanks to everyone posting here for this amazing resource of leather sewing machine knowledge, best on the internet bar none.

I have a question that I felt was necessary to post, because I havent seen this topic covered in great detail through my searches (its possible that I missed a thread or two).

I make leather garments, blazers, shirts, pants. The leather I use is almost entirely garment leather, sheep, goat, baby calf, maximum around 1.2mm, minimum .6mm in thickness. I also would like to have a machine that works well on delicate leathers like python, eel, etc. The heaviest thing I stitch would be horsehide split to 1.2mm. I would like to be using size 70-90 needles and 60-40 thread. I need to be able to have clean results with setting zippers, topstitching around pockets, collars, cuffs, etc.

I have been working in a studio with an adler 167, which I find to be excessively heavy for the types of pieces that I make. I am basically looking for the lightest weight machine that still has a walking foot. 

What do you think would be an ideal machine for this kind of application? I was considering a pfaff 1245 but it also seems a bit on the heavy side.

 

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You may want to consider a Bottom+Needle feed machine. The full compound feed machines tend to be on the heavier side.

For many industrial sewing machines, the manufacturers made various subclasses that handle different range of materials. Check the spec sheets to make sure your candidates support the needle system and sizes you want to use. 

The Durkopp Adler 272 is a modern incarnation of the Bottom+Needle feed design and supports the fine needle sizes you are looking for:

 

 

The Singer 111W151 is the vintage version. Alexander Dyer made a nice video with this machine.

 

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I think that you might benefit from either a needle feed, or roller feed machine. If there are any industrial sewing machine dealers near you (in Belgium?), contact them to see what they have with those feed systems. The needle feed has a flat foot that can be replaced with other accessory feet that have a slot rather than a needle hole. A roller feed machine has a ball bearing rolling wheel on the left side of the needle. The wheels are made in different diameters and depths. Smaller wheels turn corners and curves more gracefully, while larger wheels are better a long straight seams. Both of these machine types are gentler on soft and thin materials and usually max out with #69 (T70) bonded thread. They do much better with thinner threads and smaller needles, like you asked about.

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Thanks very much for your input. In my area, (Antwerp, Belgium) ive found nearby a Juki DMN 5420-4, which is a needle feed, double transport machine, for roughly 1000 euro, and a mitsubishi LS 2210 Needle feed machine for 650 euro. Both of these seem similar to the machine mentioned by Uwe. The adler looks really nice, but I can only find new ones for around 3000-3400 euro available. Im keeping my eyes open.

Wizcrafts, you mentioned roller feed machines, is there any model or brand that you would recommend I look at? There are unfortunately not a huge number of dealers nearby me, so im doing my best to research these machines online before I contact sellers. 

Cheers

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I would avoid the Mitsubishi LS 2210. They sew just fine, but there is a design flaw in the tension release mechanism. A needle feed Juki would be a good choice. 

Regards, Eric 

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I'd recommend checking with Global Industrial Sewing Machines (http://globalsew.com) in Haarlem, Netherlands. They're just a two hour drive north of you.

If you REALLY want to see everything make a day trip to Frankfurt and visit the TexProcess Trade Show that runs from May 9-12. I'll be there, like a kid in a candy store. That show only happens every two years in Europe.

For flatbed wheel-driven machines, the Durkopp Adler 887 is one of the current reference machines:

 

Edited by Uwe

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Adler;

If you can find a straight stitch industrial sewing machine in very good condition, chances are you can retrofit it with a roller foot conversion kit. I've pasted in a video from a dealer in the USA who sells these kits.

 

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