Is waxed cotton cord 1mm okay for leather? The local hobby store doesnt have much to choose from.

[ContactCement]

The local Tandy store is 60-120 miles away and the local hobby stores don't much thread for sewing leather. Its either sinew or leather lace. I would really like information for stitches per inch required for various leather thickness. I will be hand stitching and have learned the 2 needle method quickly. I do have a roller spacing wheel set. I'm still not any good with a diamond awl haft. So to avoid an ugly project (hopefully a messenger bag) I just chose the more expensive modern approach or shortcut to get me started a little quicker. I purchased a Craftool Pro 3.5 mm Fine Diamond Punch which works great.  I  however have purchased various thicknesses of bagged scrap leather to perfect my hand stitching using 40%- 60%coupons and will someday need another stitching punch to get the spacing / stitches per inch correct for each type of leather and thickness encountered in this journey.  My very first attempt at hand stitching went well and I hand sewed a replacement purse strap for my wife. Friends say it looks a lot like a machine did it.  It was enjoyable and very relaxing, even very satisfying. I  just need a little thicker thread to properly fill the punched diamond holes for a better appearance.  I'm experiencing the slight frustration of scattered and incomplete information which basically slows down my attempts to eventually master this hobby. There are so many types of thread sizes and what they are made of and then combining that with correct needle. Leather crafters really need a needle size, thread weight, and stitches per inch chart for various thicknesses of leather in pdf. If any chart exists lets put it somewhere that is easy to access if not maybe someone will someday make one. Thanks for your time.

Edited May 14, 2017 by ContactCement

[alpha2]

I don't have the comprehensive list you're looking for. I'm looking for it too! But I do have a couple of things that might get you started.

This something I picked up here on the forum:

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What's the difference between Câblé linen, Lin Retors Extra, Lin Retors, etc.?
All of the corded linen lines are great products, each have been perfected to different sewing applications.
Lin Retors often comes in small sewing thread capsules and is a single twisted thread used for embroidery and cloth sewing.
Lin Retors Extra is the next step up- three strands twisted and then retwisted for extra smoothness and durability.
Lin Câblé is yet a another step up from that, in that it is moistened and smoothed for even more strength and durability.

Which size is best for me?

Overall our threads are suitable for most leather goods. The thickest size is 332 and the finest size is 832. Picking the best thread weight for your work has a couple of considerations:

Strength- Use thicker (332) thread for heavier duty items or items that you think will get more stress.

Stitch Count- Our pricking irons are mostly 9 teeth per inch which is universally suited for all of our thread sizes. If you choose a lower iron number (7pti, 6tpi, etc.) use thicker thread. Conversely, use a finer thread for higher iron numbers (11tpi, 12tpi etc.).

Aesthetic- 332 and 432 thread is commonly seen in more western looking items while 632 thread is seen in more luxury and European items.

Is the pre-waxed thread sticky?
The wax that comes on the Lin Câblé thread is not the cheap kind that are found on other brands. It is not very stick and does not wipe off on your hands. The wax is light and holds well while sewing. Many people will still run the thread over their waxing block to give it an extra layer. This is also perfectly fine.

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Also this:

 

[alpha2]

The smallest thread I use right now is .8mm Tiger Thread. I also use 1.0 a lot. I like both of these at 7spi. Here's a pic of .8 Tiger (top) and 1.0 Tiger both at 7spi.

 

[cradom]

Maybe this will help: https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=Nylon-Thread-Information

My 'local' Tandy is 100 mi away. Use the net and order online. (link above is from these forums, don't remember who posted it)

 

[fredk]

1mm waxed cotton thread is ok

I wouldn't go to any finer than 8 stitches per inch with it though. I think 6 spi is about the best

[ContactCement]

3 hours ago, alpha2 said:

Those are fine looking stitches in the photo. Thanks for taking the time to post this great information.  I'll place it in a word document and continue over time adding any other helpful data as I find it. To avoid costly mistakes as quality and accuracy varies from one iron to another.  Which brand or manufacturer of pricking iron did you mention below or prefer ?

Stitch Count- Our pricking irons are mostly 9 teeth per inch which is universally suited for all of our thread sizes. If you choose a lower iron number (7pti, 6tpi, etc.) use thicker thread. Conversely, use a finer thread for higher iron numbers (11tpi, 12tpi etc.).

 

 

 

Edited May 14, 2017 by ContactCement

[alpha2]

I don't know where that info came from initially, I just found it on this forum. I use Tandy stitching chisels, I don't particularly care for them, but I haven't come up with the bucks for the good ones. There are some nice ones in my future, though.You have to put a lot of time and effort into the Tandy ones to make them easier to use. 

 

[RhodesAveDesigns]

Here's some "advice" from a fellow newbie. I'm a full-time college student who's been lurking, and working on small projects, since February. I have a background in fiber arts, so I have some understanding of threads/ fibers.

It sounds like you have either a Michael's or a Hobby Lobby nearby. For the long-term, cotton isnt the best choice, but the braided cotton in the jewelry section would be somewhat more durable. They also have waxed linen and thin hemp threads in the jewelry supply section, they aren't great quality, but they "work", and you can split the waxed linen down if needed (to a 3-ply size, for example). Hobby Lobby also has a #5 nylon thread in the macrame or yarncraft area which you can experiment with (your local Wal-Mart may, as well, thry also usualky have waxed linen in their craft area). Ordering a spool or 2 of linen or polyester online will serve you better in the long run (I bought a spool of Somac 18/3 linen on Etsy; you can dye basic off-white threads additional colors yourself). 

Hobby Lobby has somewhat better quality leather and leatherworking supplies. Do yourself a favor and buy better quality leather than what is in most of the scrap bags, it is far easier to plan a project with better leather (I know this from experience; even if it's just the veg tan goatskin from Hobby Lobby, or the small rectangles of veg tan [you can make a couple front pocket card wallets from just 1], you can work much faster with larger pieces of decent leather).

Good luck! It is an addictive craft. 

[Brianm77]

Here is what I have been using. The ones on the right are cheep ones off amazon wich I have been very happy with and far better than the 4 that fit on one handle from Tandy.  The one on the left is a more expensive one from goods Japan. I would not hesitate to buy those cheeper ones again. 

[Huginn]

found this a long time ago. i use .8mm tiger thread with my 4mm stitching chisels and .6mm with my 3mm stitching chisels.

This might also be helpful http://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm