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stormdevil

Carved dragon

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Hi

 

This is my most difficult leather carving to date. I tried really hard to get my leather cased just right, but I still found if difficult to work with.

I stropped the swivel knife, but I keep thinking it should be a bit easier than it was. How sharp does the knife need to be? Should I be able to slice paper with it or something?

Anyway - after trying out some different dying and painting techniques, I'm quite pleased with the result.

Any hints or tips?

dragon1.jpg

dragon.jpg

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I like it.  Well done.  It could be the leather you are using.  Tandy recently had a sale on their Euro bends and I picked one up.  The knife dragged, skipped and stuttered through the leather.  I sharpened and stropped over and over but it didn't help.  I finally had to accept that it was the leather.  I have never had a piece that was so difficult to carve.

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Very nice. I'm a big dragon fan. And yeah could be the leather you were using. Not all cow is created equal!

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21 hours ago, kiwican said:

Very nice. I'm a big dragon fan. And yeah could be the leather you were using. Not all cow is created equal!

me too. I like little ones too!

 

Nice work

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18 hours ago, AZNightwolf said:

me too. I like little ones too!

 

Nice work

Hes here all week folks, try the veal and don't forget to tip your server!

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Nice work! I am just finishing off the last of three discount $99 saddle skirt hides from Tandy. They've been really difficult to work with, enough so that I'm finally splurging on some higher quality hides from another source.

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Really nice!  One thing that would make it even better is to make the background a bit darker behind it, that would make it pop even more!

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18 hours ago, GrayHallidayJr said:

Nice work! I am just finishing off the last of three discount $99 saddle skirt hides from Tandy. They've been really difficult to work with, enough so that I'm finally splurging on some higher quality hides from another source.

Yes - It was a cheaper Tandy leather. It seems to stamp reasonably well, but it's definitely difficult to carve.

Will try from somewhere different next time, but there's still a lot of this hide to use up yet.

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I think the general rule seems to be "don't buy leather from Tandy". Every time I go in there, the best hide I can find is still only a low-B grade.

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I'm no fan of the evil empire, but their new superior line seems to be an attempt to offer some good leather.

However, the price is outrageous so still not a fan.

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stormdevil

I want you to try this method of tempering your leather.

Soak a trial piece in warm water until the bubbles stop. Using an old terry cloth towel roll the towel around the leather allowing it to roll with the towel.

If you do this in the evening, wait until next evening to unroll towel and leather. Leather should lay flat without any problems. The leather should appear like pie dough in texture. If you press a finger tip into it, you should have an impression. That is when it is ready to carve. I have never tested any of my swivel knives with cutting paper. The bevels on the blade should be exactly the same angle. When doing fine work you should use a blade that is relatively thin and about 1/4" in width and angled not straight. Strop the blade after you make several cuts. Do that continuously while doing the design. You should find that the thinner and narrower blades will work better with lots of stropping.

BTW: Don't put the towel in the fridge. Leave the roll lay on your work bench or similar area in normal temperature and humidity.

Please let me know if this helps with your situation.

Ferg

Edited by Ferg

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6 hours ago, Ferg said:

stormdevil

I want you to try this method of tempering your leather.

Soak a trial piece in warm water until the bubbles stop. Using an old terry cloth towel roll the towel around the leather allowing it to roll with the towel.

If you do this in the evening, wait until next evening to unroll towel and leather. Leather should lay flat without any problems. The leather should appear like pie dough in texture. If you press a finger tip into it, you should have an impression. That is when it is ready to carve. I have never tested any of my swivel knives with cutting paper. The bevels on the blade should be exactly the same angle. When doing fine work you should use a blade that is relatively thin and about 1/4" in width and angled not straight. Strop the blade after you make several cuts. Do that continuously while doing the design. You should find that the thinner and narrower blades will work better with lots of stropping.

BTW: Don't put the towel in the fridge. Leave the roll lay on your work bench or similar area in normal temperature and humidity.

Please let me know if this helps with your situation.

Ferg

Hi Ferg

Thanks for your suggestions, I'll definitely try that the next time.

What I did was:
- Soak in warm water.
- Left overnight in plastic bag in work room (cool)
- Still too wet to work.
- Left out without plastic bag for rest of day
- Still too wet
- Left over next night
- Trid to carve - not good, though did get a bit better with more time

I have 2 swivel knives - one is a cheap and cheerful one, the other is Japanese. They both have a similar blade. I don't have an angled one, and I probably don't strop enough while I'm working - will need to get one.

Toni

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You can likely get a small blade to fit one of your knives, wouldn't need to buy the handle.

I began leather work almost 65 years ago although I didn't continue it all that time. Marriage, babies, business other than leather. lol

I used the method above all the time then when I got on the forum I tried some of the other ways, they just didn't work for me.

Hope this works for you.

Ferg

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