Leather for Shoemaking and Tools

[AdamGadut]

I've seen youtube videos about shoemaking and unfortunately, the video quality was hard to see because it was VGA, and the creator hardly replies. 

I had a background of making small leather Items such as wallets, organizers and such - and even a couple bags. I'm happy with my stitching. I never had any experience or Idea about shoemaking - It looks all daunting.

If i can, I wanted to create my own shoe, so its Mens shoes and probably a little traditional in the manner of creating using lasts, but the materials would be a little modern.

1.) are Chrome Tanned leathers ok to use?... and what leathers are Not OK for such applications?... 

the leathers i have are: Chrome tanned Cow hides - on several Finishes, some Nubuck Leather, some pigs hide (0.8mm thick), and some goat hide(0.9mm thick), and some Cow Hide for tooling thats about 2-3 mm thick.. 

The local shop that sells leathers doesn't always have calf hides so I'm thinking about possible alternatives.

2.) whats a good thickness? -i'm guessing goat hides would probably be a bad Idea for the top part of the shoe...

3.) Do i need the strechy part of the hide?

4.).. can I use the tooling leather for the soles?

5.)  I saw someone using a stitching awl for the good year welt - it looked like the tip of the needle was a hook because it was pulling the thread in, but when he started, the thread wasn't really inserted into the needle. - is that right?.. 

6.) Can someone post pics of the Bare minimum tools to make shoes? - all handmade - i dont have a sewing machine.

 

[Stetson912]

Oh boy, that's quite the project. I don't make shoes but this interests me. 

Have you heard of Lisa Sorrell? She is a boot maker and she sells a few tools on her site. I'm not sure what all you will need. I recommend looking at her YouTube series, she gives little tips and tricks and shows a lot of tools she uses. She does use a sewing machine and I think she even sells lasts or mentions where to get them.

There is leather called some bend leather. It's veg tan but is super stiff. That's what most use for soles. I imagine you will want a sharp curved awl as well as a straight one. 

I have seen people not use needles when sewing as well. Instead they use what is called a waxed end. Lisa shows how this is done I believe. A waxed end is flexible and will follow the holes a curved awl makes a lot easier than anything else I imagine. 

As far as leather recommendations, I can't really help. I imagine anything that is strong enough to get through lasting is ok to use. But I'm not real sure. I don't think stretch is a shoemakers friend thogu. I would think that when you last the shoe if it stretches you'll have to re last and keep stretching it till the stretch is gone. It may effect the wear of the shoe too. Just my thoughts. I hope someone chimes in here, I'm curious to see what others think too. 

[AdamGadut]

Yeah... this one isn't supposed to be daunting to us. we're native to leathercraft unlike common people, but the topic of leather shoemaking seems a completely different art when its brought up. 

and i see there aren't really a lot of content in this forum about the subject.

 

5 minutes ago, Stetson912 said:

Have you heard of Lisa Sorrell?

whats her username in Youtube?... I will look her up

the one I previously was watching was andrew Wrigley

 

[Stetson912]

It's under her name. Lisa Sorrell. The series is called "it's a boots life". It's not instructional but you still learn a lot. It's about her life and things she does but most always has a tip or trick related to boot making. And from there there are other resources she mentions. She also has a DVD instructional guide she sells if you have the coin for it. It is a bit pricey though. 

I've had the same ishoe...about finding information. It's really hard to find someone who knows it and is willing to part with the information. Haha. 

[Stetson912]

Oh, check this out too. Just heard about it.https://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Shoes-Men-László-Vass/dp/3848003686

[billybopp]

You'll find a link to Lisa's shop in the banner ads at the top of the page here.   Should be able too get to the YouTube vids from there as well, indirectly.   Good info in many videos even if you're not making footwear, and great info if you are, although piecemeal.   Also, for those that don't follow her regularly, she recently lost her daughter, Paige.  Very sad event...and as you'll see in the videos Paige was a fine, bright young lady.   She will be missed by all.

Bill

[Stetson912]

Oh wow, I hadn't heard that. That's so sad. 

[AdamGadut]

On Andrew Wrigley's video's, 2 of the videos deteriorated badly i could hardly see what he's doing (Video 7 & 8) - it was about Lasting the shoe - where he was pulling the leather and putting nails so it gets the toe box shape.. I looked up other videos and found Tim Skyrme - he explained those parts quiet well. 

[Stetson912]

I think ive seen some of times videos too. They are pretty good. 

[Hunhunt]

You might check out the video series available at this website: http://www.healthyhandmadeshoes.com.

It takes you through the entire shoe making process using the simplified stitch out (stitch down) sole construction method. It is a very simplified process and you can always modify what you learn from the video to suit your needs. As far as leather, I use 5-6 oz chrome tanned leather for shoes that is often sold as "chap leather". For the midsole you will probably want to use a vegetable tanned leather (I use 8-9 oz). Other materials you might use would be plastizote for the insole and crepe which is sandwiched between the midsole and the outsole. I use synthetic outsoles (Vibram) as I find leather outsoles to be too slippery.

[Saturn]

On 6/1/2017 at 10:22 AM, AdamGadut said:

1.) are Chrome Tanned leathers ok to use?... and what leathers are Not OK for such applications?... 

the leathers i have are: Chrome tanned Cow hides - on several Finishes, some Nubuck Leather, some pigs hide (0.8mm thick), and some goat hide(0.9mm thick), and some Cow Hide for tooling thats about 2-3 mm thick.. 

The local shop that sells leathers doesn't always have calf hides so I'm thinking about possible alternatives.

2.) whats a good thickness? -i'm guessing goat hides would probably be a bad Idea for the top part of the shoe...

3.) Do i need the strechy part of the hide?

4.).. can I use the tooling leather for the soles?

5.)  I saw someone using a stitching awl for the good year welt - it looked like the tip of the needle was a hook because it was pulling the thread in, but when he started, the thread wasn't really inserted into the needle. - is that right?.. 

6.) Can someone post pics of the Bare minimum tools to make shoes? - all handmade - i dont have a sewing machine.

1- really, any leather or material that you are comfortable with and can source.

2- also relates to #1. think total thickness and suitability for type of shoe and use.

3- the belly is where welting is cut from - toe puffs etc Flank leather also for building up lasts

4- sure, if it is all you can get - saddle skirting is cheep and easy practice material- hammer to compress.

5 - hmmmm... Mckay needle? There are dozens of techniques and many are mis-named. 

6 - depending on your method it varies - however you decide to hand sew search here. 

The most important piece is a good stout knife for soles/heels & hammer. I'm sure you already have cutting & skiving thing leather skills/tools

 

Saturn

Edited June 9, 2017 by Saturn
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[AdamGadut]

Thanks a lot Saturn,

You made me be confident of the items i have :). .

a question, about the tooling leather, for the soles. The ones i have are about 3 mm thick. I'm thinking to use it for the outersole and the mid sole for the goodyear welting. For the outermost sole, pair it with some rubber for traction. is this a good idea?

[Sahar]

Hey all,

I've recently started to make leather shoes. Since I do kind of self-study and don't have a trainer, I face some questions now and then.

Which skin is used for the toe puff normally? I mean cow, goat...?

 

Thank you