Re doing my first saddle

[j20]

Where are some good places to purchase tools from and if you were just going to have a few basic tools what would they be?  I have tried some tools such as punches and rivet setters from tandy both were junk and I have since replaced them with tools from Springfield leather those seem to be pretty good so far. 

[cowboycolonel]

That is a tough one without having an idea of your budget for tools.  I believe that money spent on good tools doesn't count, so I look for the best -- not necessarily the most expensive. Gotta have a good head knife and know how to sharpen it.  Swivel knife if you're going to do any tooling.  Dividers for measuring. Pointed awl, diamond awl and assorted needles.  Maul for stamping and tooling and quality stamps to do the job you'd be proud of.  A good source to start is Barry King in Sheridan.  Hackbarth for some stamps, Osborne makes a head knife for starters, and you can move up if you want.  Hope this helps.

[j20]

Im looking at awls and there are so many, you say pointed and diamond and even with it narrowed down to that I'm still finding quite a few to chose from.  Which ones best suite what I'm doing?  I will be doing no tooling.  I think I'm going with the osborne head knife for now.

[480volt]

Bob Douglas makes very good awl blades and hafts, and many other tools as well. Not cheap, but extremely well made.

[j20]

Not necessarily looking for brand suggestions I'm going with king or osborne.  Im more looking for exactly what awls I need size wise.

[cowboycolonel]

Dear J,

You will need a pointed awl for anything you do.  Tandy sells Osborne awls and they will work for what you want to do.  I suggest you call Dick Anderson, number if you want through personal contact, and tell him what you're doing and he will set you up. Remember, the best awl in the world is dangerous unless you keep it sharp.  Same goes for Head knives and, well, everything else. While you're ordering from Tandy, get a small Badmitten awl.  It will come in handy. These things aren't expensive, so you can go wild and still not break the bank.

[j20]

All I'm finding on tandys website is craftool brand any good?  I have a speedy stitcher I got from there a while back with a few different needles, do these have their place or are they low end or just not used by those of you that do this on a more professional level.

[cowboycolonel]

Like most things, they have their place.  They are particularly useful when you're trying to stitch something and don't have enough clearance to be able to pull your needles all the way through the material, like the corner of a Cheyenne Roll, for example.  I have two of them (because a guy gave them to me) and haven't used them more then half-a dozen times in 20 years.  BUT, when you need them, you really need them. I have since found that you can work faster with a simple hook in an awl haft, and these come in different sizes.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I have a speedy stitcher I bought when I first started doing leatherwork and have used it maybe 5 times since then.  Like Colonel said, a hook in a haft works better most of the time for tight spaces.  It's difficult to get a good looking hand stitch with that thing.  Re: head knives, do yourself a favor and buy a good one right off the bat. A new Osborne will make you hate round knives for the rest of your life.  My recommendation would be to buy an older knife from Bruce Johnson, or if you are adept at sharpening things yourself, buy an older, good brand that needs to be cleaned up and sharpened (less money--usually).  W. Rose is an excellent knife, once you get it sharp.  Older C.S Osbornes, H.F. Osborne, Gomph, and there are others.  I'd actually recommend two of them, one bigger broader one for straight cuts and skiving, and a smaller one with the points swept back for pattern cutting.  If they are good, the more you use them the more you'll want to (kind of like a good horse).  If they are poor, your work will show it and you'll hate round knives.  A good draw gauge is essential for strap work, again I'd go with something from a tool collector/trader.  Most of my awl blades are, you guessed it, old.  I do have a couple Bob Douglas blades that are ok, but I still prefer the old steel.  Getting tougher to find all the time though.  I have 3 or 4 that I use the most.  One is very small and reserved for English work.  I can't even tell you the sizes; I just grab the one that I know I want for any given job.  You'll probably want a little trim knife.  The so-called "clicker knives" will work, but again, the more you spend, usually the better the knife.  A range of drive punches are needed.  I still have a cheap set of Tandy punches that I got 30 years ago.  I doubt the ones they sell now would last as long.  I like oval punches for a lot of things.  Weavers brand are ok, but taper too abruptly and I've curled the edges on a couple already, maybe after 5-10 years of use..  I bought a couple new Osborne ovals and rolled the edges on one almost right away.  A range of strap end and bag punches are all things you'll eventually want.  There really is no end to buying tools; seems like there is always one more thing you need.

[cowboycolonel]

You really don't need all that much if all you're going to do is replace the skirts, jockeys, and fenders.  You can stitch on a machine or by hand, but if you do it by hand, make sure you have a wheel to mark your stitches.  Very likely the only stitching you will have to do will be the shearling, and if that's so, a number 5 or 6 wheel will work fine.  No need to stitch aft jockeys, and the only place you'll have to stitch the fenders will be where they attach to the leathers at the top and the bottom.  I use a number 5 for all this work.  I also cut a groove for my stitches to they won't wear out from friction.  This is all going back to your original post, of course.  If the job is expanding - which they tend to do - then you'll need more tools.  If you've been repairing saddles for a while, then you probably have most of what you need.  If not, then you can pick and choose from the above posts.  The one thing I haven't seen recommended here is a skife.  They come in really handy when you're trying to make mirror copies of fenders, skirts, and jockeys.  I also use a rounded surform tool for matching pieces up.  A Number 3 edger will round things out, and I use saddle soap as a burnishing medium.