Paul65 Report post Posted July 9, 2017 I recently purchased an Omega industrial sewing machine. Upgraded from the 1/3 hp clutch motor to a servo from Techsew. Being inexperienced the clutch motor was scary fast and I liked my fingers the way they were. It only came with one needle, 140/22 is all I could read on it. I will be sewing anything from 2-3 oz. leather to as thick as I can....I've run 8-9 oz. through with no problem. I am using #69 thread through the 140/22 and find it "balling" up underneath and extra thread coming up from the bobbin but not all the time. I guess my question is after much looking through the forums, am I using the proper thread for this needle or am I even using the right needle? I saw in one of the charts that the 135 x 17 is the same size needle; is this correct? I have played with the tensions somewhat but if the needle /thread size may be the issue, I don't want to beat my head against the wall. Any advice would be helpful re needle size vs: thread. The needle #'s are confusing to understand. Thanks in advance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted July 9, 2017 Most (but not all) upholstery class walking foot machines (if this is a walking foot machine) use system 135x16 leather point and 135x17 round point needles. Exceptions exist, especially in Pfaff machines. If it has two bars coming down, with feet on both, behind the needle bar, is a some form of walking foot machine. The #140/22 needle is waaaaaay too big for #69 thread. You should buy some #110/18 needles in leather point to sew leather with this thread. The #22 needle is meant to sew #138 thread, which is twice the diameter of your #69. Thread balls or knots underneath can be caused by incorrect top threading, or overly tight bobbin tension, or the thread binding in the bobbin shuttle mechanism as it cycles for a stitch. I'll guess incorrect top threading, with little or no top tension, for now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul65 Report post Posted July 9, 2017 Thank you Wiz. That is exactly the info I was looking for. I was given some 170 needles with the machine but they are too big to fit in the needle bar (correct terminology???) It is not a walking foot. I believe it was purchased from a sale after a Levis company went out of business. Are the #110/18 needles the same fit as the #140/22? Thanks again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul65 Report post Posted July 9, 2017 Ok...found some smaller leather needles with some of our other machines but the hole in the needle bar is too small to accept the needle. The needle that came out appears round and measures .060". Standard needles with the flat measure about .015" larger and will not fit. Have I got some odd ball needle bar? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted July 9, 2017 If your Omega is a straight stitch garment machine, it probably uses system 1738/DBx1/16x257 needles. These are the most commonly sold needles in the garment trade. Another system used in some garment machines is the Pfaff system 134. They have a slightly wider upper shank, but about the same length from the top of the shank to the eye, plus or minus a few microns. Shorter needles translate into a shorter needle bar stroke, meaning less thickness can be sewn than a different machine that uses longer needles. Also, the pressure, top tension and check springs will probably be much lighter duty than those on a walking foot machine. If you are lucky, the machine will be able to sew with #80 jeans thread, using a #19 (or 20) needle. This thread is commercially available from suppliers to the garment trade, such as Wawak. They have everything you'll need, including needles,bobbins, thread, oil, lube, snips, bindings, Venture leather tape, et al. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted July 9, 2017 How about a picture or model number of the machine? "Omega industrial" is pretty vague. This is like a game of "What's my stitch" where we have to ask a series questions to guess what machine you really have. The pictures that pop on google image search for that term are Sailrite type clones. If your machine looks like the picture below, you can go the sailrite website (http://www.sailrite.com/) and order all your parts and supplies from them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul65 Report post Posted July 12, 2017 Not a very good picture but may give you a better idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted July 12, 2017 Looks like maybe a clone of a Juki ( has "the Juki look" ) textile machine..which one ? ..They made so many .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul65 Report post Posted July 12, 2017 I have been wading through websites and charts re needles for this machine...particularly the DBx1 system (as mentioned by Wiz)....if anyone can tell me what needle size (with the .060" or 1/16" shank to fit my needle bar) and to use on #69 and #138 thread size and best place to purchase it would be greatly appreciated. I am in Canada but I'm not adverse to ordering out of country. I'm a Millwright by trade and pride myself in troubleshooting this kind of stuff but I'm lost here. My hats off to those well versed in the idiosyncrasies of this topic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted July 12, 2017 Paul; System DBx1 is also known as system 1738 and as system 16x257. Anybody who sells industrial sewing machines also sells these needles. There are dozens of industrial sewing machine dealers across Canada, the best known here being Techsew, a division of Raphael Sewing, in Montreal. If you look at the top of any page on Leatherworker.net and refresh your browser (press F5 while using the browser), you will certainly bring up one of the Techsew banners. If you don't see any banners it is because you are using an ad blocker (shame on you; we depend on these advertisers to stay online), so turn it off! Your photo reveals an oil level viewport. That indicates that your machine has an oil pump and must sit in an oil pan filled with industrial sewing machine oil and must spin fast enough to distribute the oil to the extremities of the top wicks. We are talking about at least 2000 rpm to get the oil distributed. Failure to run the machine at speed will eventually cause it to seize up or run poorly. Garment machines like your Omega do not usually properly handle #138 bonded thread. Be prepared to limit it to #69 bonded thread, using no larger than a #18 needle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) Your machine looks like a very close relative to a Brother DB2-B755. Check out the Brother DB2-B755 manual (db2b755.pdf ) and see how closely it matches up with your machine. Also, most industrial needles of this general machine class have a round shank, only domestic sewing needles have a flat side on the shank. The two types are not interchangeable. Since the needle shank is round, you have to pay attention as to how you insert it. The manual will tell you how. Edited July 12, 2017 by Uwe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul65 Report post Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) Once again gentlemen, many thanks and yes Wiz....I will click on the banners Uwe...It looks identical to the Brother. I read somewhere that the Omegas were rebranded then sold out of Quebec. Great info!! Edited July 13, 2017 by Paul65 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites