Improve stitching / needs breathing room

[Webicons]

Hello All! 

I was hoping to get a little insight and pearls of wisdom. 

While waiting for some leather to come in I am taking this time to practice and try to clean up my stitching.  As you can see, I ran two quick lines here.  I would like to have more breathing room between the stitches, especially the back side where it looks like one continuous line. 

I've played with SPI, thread weight, tension, etc. but I can't seem to be able to open it up and separate each stitch visually.  What should I be working on?  

I love the look of Niwa Leather's stitching but I understand that it is more machine stitching but can I somehow emulate it with hand stitching? 

I have been thinking of looking at round stitching chisels that can actually make holes rather than slits (ie. KS Blades). Do you think that would help? 

Your insight is greatly appreciated!

[KingsCountyLeather]

I have the exact problem and for the last 2 nights I've been trying different threads and stitching holes and can not get the stitches to have that small gap between them. Making bigger holes didn't work and also pulling the thread tighter didn't work either. Maybe it's the type of leather?

Your stitching looks good though.

[alpha2]

I'm curious, why do you want spaces between your stitches? I hadn't heard of that before. But then, I haven't been doing this for very long.

[Webicons]

1 hour ago, KingsCountyLeather said:

I have the exact problem and for the last 2 nights I've been trying different threads and stitching holes and can not get the stitches to have that small gap between them. Making bigger holes didn't work and also pulling the thread tighter didn't work either. Maybe it's the type of leather?

Your stitching looks good though.

Thanks KCL!  I also tried 2-3 oz and 4-5 oz with no change.  If I don't knot the stitch then I can get the back to look like the front but not anyway else.  If I don't knot the stitch then I risk throwing off my stitches. Not sure what I should be working on!

Alpha - I'm just playing around with the look of the stitches.  When I make wallets I want the outside to be as nice as the inside but I run into the issue above.  If you look at the stitching from Niwa Leather you can see what I mean but I think that his stitching is machine stitched (which is incredible in itself).   I'm just a novice as well just trying to improve my game. 

[KingsCountyLeather]

I just googled Niwa Leather now... impressive work and did you see his workshop? Wow! If you look in the background you can see the machines he uses...

Here is some of the things I am trying at the moment, but I have to get the stitching better. https://www.dropbox.com/sc/p1vx3sqpi99k11g/AACPEZegHX_PitjY9bLeXvlOa

[Webicons]

50 minutes ago, KingsCountyLeather said:

I just googled Niwa Leather now... impressive work and did you see his workshop? Wow! If you look in the background you can see the machines he uses...

Here is some of the things I am trying at the moment, but I have to get the stitching better. https://www.dropbox.com/sc/p1vx3sqpi99k11g/AACPEZegHX_PitjY9bLeXvlOa

Solid and balanced work man. Stitching looks good and did you carve the box?  

[KingsCountyLeather]

No, I don't know where that came from.. My brother made the pen and it was in the box, he asked me to make a leather pen holder.

I have a video up on youtube where I made the pen case and at the end of it you can see some more of his pens. you needn't rush off to you tube now!!! I only started leather working this year...

[Stetson912]

Well, from what I see I'm not sure exactly how to mimic that stitch. I suppose you could handstitching a lockstitch somehow. Machines usually sew a lockstitch where as you usually saddle stitch when hand stitching. 

However, I don't think that's the only factor or would make a huge difference. What are you using to make your stitching holes? A diamond awl and even chisels will give you the look you are getting. But a machine uses the needle to punch the holes, therefore the holes are round and the exact size of the needle. Maybe try punching round needle sized holes?

Also what size thread are you using? Maybe try the above method with slightly smaller thread. 

And finally, I noticed that now had a fairly straight stitch. Maybe try grooving your leather when stitching. That's the only way I know to flatten out saddle stitching. 

Just some of my ideas. Maybe one or a combination of them will work. Good luck!

[gmace99]

 

 

[KingsCountyLeather]

Ok,  that helps me a lot. Thanks.

the size of the holes must make a big difference as well or using thinner thread? So far I have several colours in .8mm tiger thread, I thought that would be the best size for a beginner like me? But my awl doesn't make the holes as big as yours.

[Webicons]

Today was an interesting day.  Here's what I learned:

When stitching, I was taught to return the thread on the bottom and to the front (closer to body). Let's call that Method 1.

I watched the movie posted by GMACE99 and I noticed the he was returning the thread on the top and to the back (away from body). We'll call that method 2.

The resulting stitches are totally different. In one sense I like the Front view of Method 1 but I really like the Back view of Method 2. 

To get the classic look to the stitch, in Method 1 I don't really have to exaggerate the up/down angle of my hands when I pull but it is definitely needed in Method 2. 

I also think that it's critical to have a clearly defined hole in Method 2 but that helps for either way. 

I can see where there may be a situation where it's better use one technique over the other. 

So much to learn...

Its interesting to note the direction of the stitching.  In Method 2 the Front view goes Up/Down but the Back view goes Down/Up.  In Method 1 the Front view and Back view both go Up/Down.  

Can someone explain why?  My head hurts. 

 

Edited September 8, 2017 by Webicons

[Tugadude]

Whatever method you used in the last row, it is not correct.  Thread is to go from top of slit to bottom of adjacent slit.

[Webicons]

8 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Whatever method you used in the last row, it is not correct.  Thread is to go from top of slit to bottom of adjacent slit.

Thank you Tugadude.  Does this apply to both the front and backside of the stitching?

[YinTx]

9 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Whatever method you used in the last row, it is not correct.  Thread is to go from top of slit to bottom of adjacent slit.

+1 for that.

Looks like your needles are reversed from what they should be.    The pattern Tugadude refers to should show identical on both front and back.

YinTx

[Webicons]

8 minutes ago, YinTx said:

+1 for that.

Looks like your needles are reversed from what they should be.    The pattern Tugadude refers to should show identical on both front and back.

YinTx

Thanks YinTx - I guess I'm back to my original stitching technique or I may have interpreted it wrong (which wouldn't be the first time!) 

When I started looking at videos on YouTube this week on Saddle Stitching was overwhelmed at all the different ways people stitch.  Some seemed outright wrong while others looked very interesting.  I think I saw a video on FineLeatherworking.com where they put both needles in at the same time.  

My head hurts again. 

[YinTx]

Thats the beauty of art, I think.  There is no one way to do it right, and sometimes when folks break all the rules, new art emerges.  There are tried and true methods that work once you learn them, and you end up using many different methods sometimes on the same project to get the stitching to look right all the way around.  And there are some outright wrong methods floating around, you just sometimes have to decide for yourself which ones you don't like and jettison them.

The sample runs you are doing I found really helpful when I was trying to figure out what worked best for me - keep doing them!  I made notes so when I went back to look at results, I knew what method gave which results.

YinTx

[Tugadude]

Good advice from YinTx