Tooling

[Tpc]

Hi All, 

Thought I would have a go at tooling.  Starting with some coasters.  I cut squares, then wet and cut a border with a swivel knife. I haven't decided on a pattern yet,  but would I wet the leather before tooling or do it dry? Thanks T

P's.  Assuming liquid will get spilt.  what should I seal it with? 

Edited September 9, 2017 by Tpc

[k10]

You do the tooling wet too. I generally do it at the same time as swivel cutting. Damp it well and wait for it to lighten in shade and start cutting them stamping. Too wet and it'll be spongy and not take an impression well and mush details, too dry and you wont get deep impression and cuts drag. For stuff where I need to wetform it too it may take a dry step if I form after tooling; I do some after tooling and some before depends on various factors but if I form it after stamping without a drying step it tends to affect the impression depth where if I dry it after tooling then form (esp soaking from the flesh side rather than skin side) I have no problem.

This is just my way and I'm far from expert so ymmv and others may have better way but you'll generally always tool wet/damp.

[Northmount]

1 hour ago, Tpc said:

Hi All, 

Thought I would have a go at tooling.  Starting with some coasters.  I cut squares, then wet and cut a border with a swivel knife. I haven't decided on a pattern yet,  but would I wet the leather before tooling or do it dry? Thanks T

P's.  Assuming liquid will get spilt.  what should I seal it with? 

Lots of info about casing (wetting prior to tooling) your leather here in this thread.  http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/19121-casing-leather/

You need a finish that is resistant to water, some acrylic leather finishes work, but I prefer a lacquer based leather finish for this case.

Tom

[k10]

as far as water resistant finishes go I only use resolene really. I don't like it neat so I thin it down but I suspect it affects the water resistance doing that, you'll loose some I imagine but get a more satin less acrylic looking finish plus I can get it through my airbrush and do several coats instead that way too. As mentioned laquer and a few other finishes are possible too. I've heard of some even using clothing waterproofers or heavy workboot proofers with mixed success and high degrees of resistance in various finishes from gloss to matte.

If accidents do happen and it absorbs some water if you leave it to dry naturally and don't stick it on a radiator or near the fire or something I've found a lot of stuff isn't ruined and will survive fine but better to avoid obviously and sometimes it will mark or cause raised waterspots. On the note of heat I imagine cold drink use is fine, for hot liquids though I'm not sure how they stand up to use over time as if it gets wet in that state it will easily swell and warp a lot and it'll dry rock hard and a lot of finishes may not be heat resistant too.  Whatever finish you settle on I'd still air on the side of caution and make a several scraps up to test them first so you know how it'll be likely to act in event of incident.

[Tpc]

Ok, that's a great help . Thank you. T