Bag Flap Curling After Machine Stitching

[SoulBoundLeather]

Hey! 

So I've been having this problem with my bag flaps curling around after stitching. The weight of my leather is like a garment leather with a little stretch. I'm trying to make a bag flap for my sling bags and I do want the stitches to be around the edges. I'm getting that curling effect though. I know it's because the machine is pulling the thread tight and since the leather has a little stretch, that is what is causing it. So I guess I'm asking: What can I do about it? How can I make it appear less curled? Should I layer the flap with two layers of the leather? Should I do a double layer with a bag stiffener into the edges? 

Thanks in advance to anyone who has any ideas. 

[mikesc]

lower your tensions,( top and bottom ) if merely sewing garment leather thickness did this, garments would look like this, they don't because they are not stitched at the same tension as thicker veg tans.

[SoulBoundLeather]

Thanks miksc. I'm sewing it on a Cobra Class 4. I like the thickness of the stitches, but maybe i need to take the leather to the juki then. Sewing it at a different tension on the cobra machine actually causes the knots to be seen at either the top or the bottom. It's a bit of a struggle to find the right tension for the garment leather on the cobra machine. 

[garypl]

Sounds like you are trying to sew at the lower limit of the class 4 machine.  You might want to try using a welt made of veg tan around the edges - this would add stiffness and should stop the curling if you want to keep using thicker thread.  Otherwise I would just sew on your lighter machine with smaller thread.

[SoulBoundLeather]

Gary,

What a great idea! I do like the look of the thicker threads for my bags. It just looks cleaner. I will try the welt! 

[garypl]

Let us know how it turns out!  3-4 oz welt will probably work well...

[JRodz]

I've been dabbling in bags lately, so I'm no expert, but I would suggest sewing inside out then turning and top stitching. That's what I've been doing and it looks very clean and finished. 

I sew anything in the under 8 oz on either a Singer 31-15 or Singer 111W56.  I have a Cobra 4 too, but I don't use it for anything under 6-8 oz veg tan (depending on stiffness), 3+ layers of upholstery leather, or 4+ layers of  canvas (+12 oz.).