Rossr Report post Posted November 12, 2017 Two splitters i got over the years. Never played around with them I should clean em up and see how they do. They are neat old pieces. Thought some others might like to see Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragonhawke Report post Posted November 13, 2017 (edited) Absolutely you should clean them up, sharpen the blade and take them out for a test drive. The one with the cast handle looks like you slide it in/out for depth adjustment and lock knob on the left to retain the setting, maybe? Would also love to get my hands on it to completely measure, draw, 3d model and cast it in aluminium or brass. Edited November 13, 2017 by dragonhawke Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 13, 2017 I refurbish these quite a bit. Feel free to ask questions as you go. The wood bottom splitters are very simple and some people really like them. The Randall Chase is a great splitter, and one of my personal favorites as a user. They can be a little trickier to break down and clean, then rebuild and adjust but once you've got them figured out it is intuitive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted November 13, 2017 Count yourself lucky, I've been on the hunt for a nice Randall type splitter for some time. Nice collection you have going! YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 13, 2017 My curiosity as I own a bell skiver is there a use for these types of manual machine? Seems to me with the Bell skiver around these aren't needed. That being said I like em and think they are a neat! I am going to go over the Randal for sure The osborne I don't know what I will do with it yet. But it isn't hurting anything sitting in my shop. I dont know about lucky Yin, More of I spent the money and here they are... Ross R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 13, 2017 They will go wider than your bell knife, they will both level skive/level split the ends of straps. The wood bottom can do an infinite tapered or lap skive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted November 13, 2017 3 hours ago, Rossr said: I dont know about lucky Yin, More of I spent the money and here they are... Ross R Yes, I get that, but also a part of it is finding the one you are willing to spend the $ on. I have seen several for sale, but not one I have been willing to shell out the asking amount for. When I find that one, I'll consider myself lucky as well. Do you use your bell skiver for strap ends, belt buckle ends and to thin down wider strips of leather for wallet interiors? I've been wanting the splitter for that, ...and I wasn't sure a bell skiver would do it... YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 14, 2017 Yin, I cant say I have used the bell skiver that much, I got it with the shop I bought out. The straps and belt ends for sure. The wallet interior I dont know depends on width. I have a 6 inch landis model 30 I have used to split leather down too. Bruce, I have checked out your site and lot of information on both those machines. I can see your point about the width. guess I havent had anything that wide I needed done too yet. but new projects every day! Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 20, 2017 Well I cleaned up the wood bottomed one. The Blade still needs sharpened more. and based on the pitting it clear was around water in its life. but still functional I think. I do notice that one side is slightly higher than the other if you look across the roller from left to right in relation to the blade. I am wondering if the work around is to shim underone of the legs? Also wondering best way to sharpen the blade. Thanks Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 21, 2017 Looks good. Shim between the blade and frame to raise the low side up. Sharpen with your fine abrasive of choice going through the grits to end with a clean mirror finish. Flat on the bottom, follow the bevel on top. Blades don't have to be around water to pit. Acids in leather can do it, hand carboned steel will pit some, Work it until you have a clean edge with not pitting on the edge or just behind it. Pits further up usually are worked out before they get to be an edge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 21, 2017 On 11/12/2017 at 9:11 PM, dragonhawke said: Absolutely you should clean them up, sharpen the blade and take them out for a test drive. The one with the cast handle looks like you slide it in/out for depth adjustment and lock knob on the left to retain the setting, maybe? Would also love to get my hands on it to completely measure, draw, 3d model and cast it in aluminium or brass. I realized I didn't respond to you Dragon. Yes the cast handle slide out to adjust the roller up or down. and the screw is a stop that can be adjusted so you do not go up too far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 21, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, bruce johnson said: Looks good. Shim between the blade and frame to raise the low side up. Sharpen with your fine abrasive of choice going through the grits to end with a clean mirror finish. Flat on the bottom, follow the bevel on top. Blades don't have to be around water to pit. Acids in leather can do it, hand carboned steel will pit some, Work it until you have a clean edge with not pitting on the edge or just behind it. Pits further up usually are worked out before they get to be an edge. Bruce, You are a wealth of information. You should write a book! I also have read through your tutorials and information sheets on your site. Thanks for those they are very useful! I am not familiar with hand carboned steel? I did a google search and didnt find anything. I am curious what that is or means. I am familiar with carbon steel. Such as 1084 or 1095 I use mostly o-1 tool steel now to make hunting knives. On the sharpening I suspected as much about following the angle. Hopefully I will get some time to sharpen it in the next few days Thanks Ross Edited November 21, 2017 by Rossr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 21, 2017 Ross, I am not a metallurgist, but here it how it was explained to me. These and Chase pattern are among the oldest style splitters and according to a couple old guys that taught me, the steel was small batch hand mixed crucible steel. The carbon was not always evenly distributed and resulted in some areas that were a bit more prone to pitting. Also Rose knives can be the same way. Still the resulting steel is pretty hard good edge retention. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 21, 2017 8 hours ago, bruce johnson said: Ross, I am not a metallurgist, but here it how it was explained to me. These and Chase pattern are among the oldest style splitters and according to a couple old guys that taught me, the steel was small batch hand mixed crucible steel. The carbon was not always evenly distributed and resulted in some areas that were a bit more prone to pitting. Also Rose knives can be the same way. Still the resulting steel is pretty hard good edge retention. Interesting stuff. I make custom knives but I am far from a metallurgist myself. Any idea how old the wood bottom one would be or what years about? I noticed there was some rust and pitting on the frame too. But I see your point on the types of leather and age in generalas well as the steel. Plus I have no way to know last this was used or anything. I like bringing these old tools back to life, or for that matter any old tools, nice to know there are some things that last still! Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 22, 2017 Ross, My oldest original catalog is and 1895 and the wood bottom (model #87) is in there. One of my friends told me that they seemed to have dropped out in about 1910 or so. I have several frames but mostly wore out blades. Not worth the price to get new blades made for them at present. When I do get a good one, they sell to Australia. These make a nice splitter and the Australians seem to have a penchant for them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 22, 2017 7 minutes ago, bruce johnson said: Ross, My oldest original catalog is and 1895 and the wood bottom (model #87) is in there. One of my friends told me that they seemed to have dropped out in about 1910 or so. I have several frames but mostly wore out blades. Not worth the price to get new blades made for them at present. When I do get a good one, they sell to Australia. These make a nice splitter and the Australians seem to have a penchant for them. Wow didnt realize just how old it really is.....Well I dont know if my blade is worn out but its seen a lot of use for sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 22, 2017 Well I got the wood bottom one all sharpened up and today and she now works. Then I went and took apart the randall got it all cleaned and painted up. Below is the taken apart picture, I will post one when its all back together. Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 24, 2017 There we have it folks, Got the second one put back together today and its works! I think they both came out just fine. Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 24, 2017 Looks great, Ross! You will like it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted November 24, 2017 15 minutes ago, bruce johnson said: Looks great, Ross! You will like it! Thanks Bruce. I see what you meant about some tricky spots on it getting them apart. But not to bad at all. Now I just need to mount it in the shop Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted November 29, 2017 Lookin good. Show us some action shots, and results! YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted November 29, 2017 yes, definitely interested to see your results... Nice work, by the way Ale Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
