Light spots, like pock marks on saddle, was moldy

[Reins Mom]

I was given a saddle by a client that was allowed to get mildew/mold.  There are light spots on the leather that are like little pock marks.  I have experimented with light sanding in hidden areas and also burnishing to flatten the leather again.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  I have to take the saddle basically apart to thoroughly clean it and remove all traces of mold.  How do I get an even color back on the saddle without the "polka dots"?

I'm filling a niche in my area since there doesn't seem to be anyone else doing saddle repair or cleaning. I have done repair for my farrier and have seen what previous "repair" people have done and am appalled at the shoddy workmanship. One of the "favorite" requests is to turn the Blevins buckle so that the stirrup leathers are inside instead of flapping around on the outside of the fenders.

I appreciate any suggestions.

Patricia Noren

 

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

8 hours ago, Reins Mom said:

I was given a saddle by a client that was allowed to get mildew/mold.  There are light spots on the leather that are like little pock marks.  I have experimented with light sanding in hidden areas and also burnishing to flatten the leather again.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  I have to take the saddle basically apart to thoroughly clean it and remove all traces of mold.  How do I get an even color back on the saddle without the "polka dots"?

I'm filling a niche in my area since there doesn't seem to be anyone else doing saddle repair or cleaning. I have done repair for my farrier and have seen what previous "repair" people have done and am appalled at the shoddy workmanship. One of the "favorite" requests is to turn the Blevins buckle so that the stirrup leathers are inside instead of flapping around on the outside of the fenders.

I appreciate any suggestions.

Patricia Noren

 

I've seen this a lot, and on some high end saddles.  I got a Passier  saddle one time that had been in Hawaii for years, that was covered with them.  I have never found a way to remove the tiny bumps once they're on the leather.  As for mildew stains, once the leather is stained a different color from mildew, the same pretty much applies, they're tough to get rid of.  You can try oxalic acid and that might lighten them a bit, and oil will darken the leather overall, possibly establishing a more even color.  I have one in the shop right now that was allowed to become badly mildewed and left that way for a long time, and nothing I've done gets rid of the discoloration left by the mildew.  Same goes for stains left by rodents building a nest on the seat and the feces and urine building up and leaving a stain on the seat leather and down the seat jockey.  I hate getting these saddles in. For one, it's gross and I hate mice worse than just about anything else in the world, and second, it's just impossible to eliminate the damage altogether.  For cleaning, I favor Lexol Leather Cleaner in the orange bottle, and for most purposes, Neatsfoot Oil as a conditioner, followed by one of any number of dressings as a final coat to make the item more moisture resistant and give a nice glow to the leather that NF oil alone won't give.  This is especially important on the complete clean and oils for the hobby people, as appearance seems to trump function for many of them. 

I agree with your statement about being appalled by shoddy workmanship, especially if the repairs have been done by someone actually "being in the business" and charging for the repairs.  However, it can offer the opportunity to educate the customer on how and why the previous repair is unacceptable and why my prices may be higher, but done in a manner I feel is better, safer, less devaluing to the item, etc. and if nothing more just looks a whole lot better.  Crude, temporary attempts by the owner in an emergency situation are forgiven.

The Blevins buckle switch is a common one here also.  What amuses me, is everyone that wants it done asks that I turn them around and put them in "the right way".  Half of the clients want them turned so the excess comes down the outside, the other half wants the excess to run up the inside, and they all think "their" way is the right way!  Human nature I guess!  I often tell them that if I turn and wrap the fender leg (Hamley Twist), the excess stirrup leather becomes a non-issue, but some disciplines frown on that modification.

[Squilchuck]

Interesting about stirrup leather position.  I recently replaced stirrup leathers on a saddle - the tail of the leather was on the inside and was so long it ran under the stirrup.  I haven't repaired lots of saddles (made a few) and couldn't understand why anyone would want the extra leather bulking under the stirrup like that.  I put the new leathers on the outside.  In my limited experience, long tails of the stirrup leather flopping around or folded up indicate the fenders are too long for the rider, and the fender and leather needs to be resized. I've done that for several small women who were riding saddles built for a long-legged person.  I'm curious to know how many custom saddle makers put leathers on the inside? Is that a common practice? --John

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

48 minutes ago, Squilchuck said:

Interesting about stirrup leather position.  I recently replaced stirrup leathers on a saddle - the tail of the leather was on the inside and was so long it ran under the stirrup.  I haven't repaired lots of saddles (made a few) and couldn't understand why anyone would want the extra leather bulking under the stirrup like that.  I put the new leathers on the outside.  In my limited experience, long tails of the stirrup leather flopping around or folded up indicate the fenders are too long for the rider, and the fender and leather needs to be resized. I've done that for several small women who were riding saddles built for a long-legged person.  I'm curious to know how many custom saddle makers put leathers on the inside? Is that a common practice? --John

I agree, it creates too much bulk as well as making it a little more difficult to adjust, but some people are used to the stirrup leather being inside and prefer it. With this method of construction, it is intended for the excess to run under the stirrup roller and back up.  I can't stand the feeling of the extra bulk and lack of flexbility, and all my personal saddles have the fenders wrapped and turned, putting the excess out of the way.   Most 16" production saddles come with 19" or 20" fenders and 66" stirrup leathers.  Barrel saddles, saddles labeled as being for women and really cheap saddles will have usually have shorter fenders and stirrup leathers.  I always offer the suggestion of shortening the stirrup leather and/or fender, but if a rider is very short legged, a taller person may not be able to use the saddle then.  It's just a difference in people; there are people who decide if it's their saddle and they're going to be the one riding it, then it's going to work for THEM.  Some of these people just cut the excess off of the hole end themselves.  I always advise against that, as you are cutting off and throwing away the best part of the stirrup leather.  The end to throw away is the neck and shoulder end which is riveted to the buckle.  Of course for most people that means spending $ to have me do it, and that's a whole different topic.  Other people trade saddles frequently and are concerned about reducing the value of the saddle if they sell it.  I've shortened 19" fenders down to 16" for short-legged people, and these people want the saddle to work for themselves.  I shortened the stirrup leathers on a saddle one time for a local horse trainer who I do a lot of work for.  He later sold the saddle to a guy who is 6'6" tall, who brought the saddle back and had me put longer stirrup leathers on it.  Decent profit off of that saddle within a year or two's time.

The ones I build are built to fit the person ordering the saddle, and most of those people are not in the least concerned that the saddle may not work for someone else. If they are, then they may not be ready to order a custom saddle.  I have never built one with the excess running up the inside, although I have built them with laced leathers, no buckles, so in theory the owner could put them either way. 

[Goldshot Ron]

Sioux, you're right, most people will become use to a saddle being a certain way, and all other ways are wrong.  I am in the opinion different to you.  I build my saddles with the extra leather turned inward and may have to be tucked under the stirrup bar (when using Blevins buckles).  I have ridden saddles where the extra stirrup leather (facing outward) was so stiff and long that it caught the toe of my boot.  When I went to dismount, the leather wedged my foot in the stirrup and I had to reach down and dislodge my foot before kicking my foot out of the stirrup.  I feel that this is a safety issue, especially for younger riders.  One summer while working as a "dude" wrangler, I saw this happen a lot with inexperienced riders.  Most of the saddles I make start out with the buckle pins facing inward, but when twisted, the stirrup leathers are outward.  However, the twist keeps the excess leather from riding or touching the toe of your boots.  The one thing about turning the extra leather around the stirrup bolt is that you will need to make a longer stirrup hobble, than usual,  to fasten around the extra material.  As a rider this doesn't bother me, but I'm getting as old as dirt anyway.

Ron

P.S. rat droppings on the seat is disgusting, and no matter what I have tried, you can't get rid of the marks unless you install a whole new seat.  I have even dyed seats, but the little pockets that the critters poop left were still visible.

 

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

1 hour ago, Goldshot Ron said:

I have ridden saddles where the extra stirrup leather (facing outward) was so stiff and long that it caught the toe of my boot.  When I went to dismount, the leather wedged my foot in the stirrup and I had to reach down and dislodge my foot before kicking my foot out of the stirrup.  I feel that this is a safety issue, especially for younger riders. 

Yes, that is the complaint when people bring a saddle to have the buckle changed so the end runs up the inside, and it is definitely a safety issue.  Since most that I build have the Hamley twist, the buckle is put on the same as if running the excess up the inside.  But personally, I can't stand to ride one if the excess is run up the inside, adding two extra layers of leather.

 

1 hour ago, Goldshot Ron said:

P.S. rat droppings on the seat is disgusting, and no matter what I have tried, you can't get rid of the marks unless you install a whole new seat.  I have even dyed seats, but the little pockets that the critters poop left were still visible.

I have one of those in the shop right now.  The split that the padded seat is made from is chewed halfway through the thickness of the leather in a fairly large area.  I had to blow the saddle off with an air hose and hose it down with water before I could stand to work on it.  It was bad.