Lines in Resolene finish

[f1humlam]

On the instructions it says to apply in long straight brushes, but at the end there is kind of a streakiness you can see. Do I just need to keep buffing in order to remove those or am I applying it the wrong way?

Edited January 17, 2018 by f1humlam

[fredk]

Buffing wont remove the line marks. Forget the Resolene's own instructions. Dilute Resolene 1:1 with water [or even 2 water :1 resolene] and apply using a slightly damp sponge. Put it on wet and wipe in a circular motion until its covered and getting into the leather. A couple or three coats put on this way with time to dry between them. Or if you can, dip coat; put the resolene in a clean container like an oven tray and dip the leather item into the bath, hang up to drip and dry

[f1humlam]

18 minutes ago, fredk said:

Buffing wont remove the line marks. Forget the Resolene's own instructions. Dilute Resolene 1:1 with water [or even 2 water :1 resolene] and apply using a slightly damp sponge. Put it on wet and wipe in a circular motion until its covered and getting into the leather. A couple or three coats put on this way with time to dry between them. Or if you can, dip coat; put the resolene in a clean container like an oven tray and dip the leather item into the bath, hang up to drip and dry

That would definitely help the little bottle I got go farther too haha.  The first watch strap I ever made bled bad so I've been kind of overdoing the sealant ever since. I probably need to focus more on the amount of dye that is used too. For some reason, when I use dark brown it turns into a reddish color at the end of it all. 

[JMcC]

The type of dye you use will also play into what kind of results you get. Fiebings dye is a good one to use and let it dry at least a day after dying. Then use an old rag and buff it really well to get any surface excess dye off before applying any type of finish. I have had good results doing this. Hope that helps.

 

[fredk]

ooops, for dipping, the resolene should be diluted as well, not straight from the bottle

[f1humlam]

9 hours ago, JMcC said:

The type of dye you use will also play into what kind of results you get. Fiebings dye is a good one to use and let it dry at least a day after dying. Then use an old rag and buff it really well to get any surface excess dye off before applying any type of finish. I have had good results doing this. Hope that helps.

 

Fiebings is the only dye I have used so far, but this will probably help a lot too.  I get so anxious to get going on it that I don't really let it dry all the way that I should and forget to buff before applying to the finish on it.  Thankfully I got a big ole piece of veg tan to do some trials on.  Thanks!

[fredk]

As JMcC says; buff after the dye has dried. Use a pale coloured cloth and buff, buff, buff. When you think you've done buffing, buff some more. Keep turning the cloth to a clean part so you can see when its not taking any more dye off. Depending on your work and home area let the item dry for at least a few hours or overnight. If it feels cold to the touch its still drying; when its room temperature its dry. Now you can put on that thinned resolene. Patience is needed in finishing an item to top quality standard

[alpha2]

You can dry too little, but not too much. Same with buffing. Also, if there is any way you can spray the Resolene, it goes on light, won't streak, and after buffing that coat, do another one or two, drying between coats. 

[f1humlam]

What would be the best thing to get for spraying or what would be the most basic that works, like a mister spray bottle?

Also, what causes the dark brown color to turn to a reddish brown at the end?  Me not being patient before applying?

[alpha2]

Some kind of air pressure sprayer. I have a Passche (sp) airbrush, but just about anything like that works. I don't have any trouble spraying 50/50 Resolene/water with mine, even with the small tip. It does require some kind of compressor, though. I just got tired of the bubbles I got with any other kind of application. My problem though, is that I have my compressor in the garage, and usually take the hose and sprayer out onto the deck off the garage to spray, and it's TOO COLD out there now to spray!  The garage isn't heated, either, so that doesn't help.

You do get a nice, light even coat though. The upside is, you use a LOT less Resolene, and a LOT less dye when spraying dye.

[Dwight]

I don't want to sound mean spirited, . . . but quite frankly I've been using Resolene for well over 10 years now, . . . NEVER have I had a serious "brush stroke" or "streak" problem.

I use cheap bristle brushes bought at Harbor Freight . . . rinse it out after each use, . . . usually it lasts a month or so and then the bristles start falling out so I pitch it and get a new one, . . . they're about 50 cents each.

I use 1/2 resolene and 1/2 water mixture, . . . brush it on fairly thick to start, . . . brush quickly to get a "lather" of bubbles all over the area I'm working, . . . then very lightly brush left / right / up / down / oblique left / oblique right, etc., . . . until there are no more bubbles.  It is a satin finish, . . . if I want more shine, . . . add another coat.  

THIS has always worked for me, . . .i have the compressor and air brush, . . . just too much aggravation and trouble to use it when I can get great results with a brush.  Especially with it being 8 degrees outside, . . . and I'm just not uncorking a spray gun inside without a spray booth, . . . which I don't presently have.

Practice it a bit on some scrap, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[alpha2]

See? Now that's the kind of stuff I hang out on here to learn. I figured there had to be a technique that worked, I just hadn't found it yet. I'm trying that soon, maybe today. I'm just finishing up a hat-band that I practiced my first ever "arrowhead backetweave" stamping on. 

Thanks, Dwight! Spraying Resolene is a time consuming affair. Even if it is 24 degrees here, instead of 8. Kinda balmy, if you know what I mean.

Edited January 17, 2018 by alpha2

[f1humlam]

19 minutes ago, Dwight said:

I don't want to sound mean spirited, . . . but quite frankly I've been using Resolene for well over 10 years now, . . . NEVER have I had a serious "brush stroke" or "streak" problem.

I use cheap bristle brushes bought at Harbor Freight . . . rinse it out after each use, . . . usually it lasts a month or so and then the bristles start falling out so I pitch it and get a new one, . . . they're about 50 cents each.

I use 1/2 resolene and 1/2 water mixture, . . . brush it on fairly thick to start, . . . brush quickly to get a "lather" of bubbles all over the area I'm working, . . . then very lightly brush left / right / up / down / oblique left / oblique right, etc., . . . until there are no more bubbles.  It is a satin finish, . . . if I want more shine, . . . add another coat.  

THIS has always worked for me, . . .i have the compressor and air brush, . . . just too much aggravation and trouble to use it when I can get great results with a brush.  Especially with it being 8 degrees outside, . . . and I'm just not uncorking a spray gun inside without a spray booth, . . . which I don't presently have.

Practice it a bit on some scrap, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

Awesome!  I was thinking using an air brush would also be kind of hard since what I am really focused on are small leather projects such as watch straps and wallets at the moment.  Do you just take the bottle of resolene and mix with the water as soon as you get it and work from there or mix on a project by project basis?

[alpha2]

What I do, is thin about half of the bottle, so I have some full strength available if I need, but now that I think about it, I've never yet used it full strength. So, I guess I need to re-think my way of doing things!

Edited January 17, 2018 by alpha2

[f1humlam]

Haha I have been using it full strength on a damp part of towel this whole time, so I guess it isn't quite full strength.  I have found that it is only the smooth leather that the streaks are most noticeable.   I have some textured leather I use that it seems to go on more evenly, but I will try the new process tonight.  Nothing like a little whiskey and leather work, good for the soul.

[Dwight]

3 hours ago, f1humlam said:

Awesome!  I was thinking using an air brush would also be kind of hard since what I am really focused on are small leather projects such as watch straps and wallets at the moment.  Do you just take the bottle of resolene and mix with the water as soon as you get it and work from there or mix on a project by project basis?

No, . . . I've got a Skippy Crunchy peanut butter jar that has a line on it at about 2 inches from the bottom, . . . another at 3 and another at 4.  

When I get down to the 2 inch line, . . . I add water to the 3 inch, . . . the Resolene to the 4 inch, . . . shake, . . . and I'm ready to go.  Put the lid on tight after every use.

Have to change the bottles out every year or so, . . . they get cruddy and nasty up around the top.  But it ain't no big deal, . . . cause I like my peanut butter.

I have one bottle made up for black, . . . another made up for browns.  Sometimes, the black will tend to pick up some of the dye as you brush it on, and I do a lot of black holsters here.  Keeping two bottles also makes sure I've always got some, . . . especially if it is a black project.

What is not mixed stays in the bottle up on the shelf.

May God bless,

Dwight

[garypl]

3 hours ago, alpha2 said:

Some kind of air pressure sprayer. I have a Passche (sp) airbrush, but just about anything like that works. I don't have any trouble spraying 50/50 Resolene/water with mine, even with the small tip. It does require some kind of compressor, though. I just got tired of the bubbles I got with any other kind of application. My problem though, is that I have my compressor in the garage, and usually take the hose and sprayer out onto the deck off the garage to spray, and it's TOO COLD out there now to spray!  The garage isn't heated, either, so that doesn't help.

You do get a nice, light even coat though. The upside is, you use a LOT less Resolene, and a LOT less dye when spraying dye.

I agree with alpha - I use a cheapo airbrush and compressor from Harbor Freight to spray dyes and resolene.  I think the compressor was $50 and airbrush was $8.  I put a large disposable aluminum turkey pan in front of a box fan with a couple of furnace filters in front of it and spray away.  I do this in the basement workshop - would probably not get nice looks from the wife if I tried it in the main part of the house.  Most of my projects are smaller, so generates very little odor and furnace filters capture most of the overspray.  I use much less dye and resolene that I use when applying it with a brush or sheepskin.

Gary

[f1humlam]

23 hours ago, fredk said:

Buffing wont remove the line marks. Forget the Resolene's own instructions. Dilute Resolene 1:1 with water [or even 2 water :1 resolene] and apply using a slightly damp sponge. Put it on wet and wipe in a circular motion until its covered and getting into the leather. A couple or three coats put on this way with time to dry between them. Or if you can, dip coat; put the resolene in a clean container like an oven tray and dip the leather item into the bath, hang up to drip and dry

That would definitely help the little bottle I got go farther too haha.  The first watch strap I ever made bled bad so I've been kind of overdoing the sealant ever since. I probably need to focus more on the amount of dye that is used too. For some reason, when I use dark brown it turns into a reddish color at the end of it all. 

[f1humlam]

The mixing with water and using a brush helped a lot. Thanks!

[JMcC]

17 hours ago, f1humlam said:

That would definitely help the little bottle I got go farther too haha.  The first watch strap I ever made bled bad so I've been kind of overdoing the sealant ever since. I probably need to focus more on the amount of dye that is used too. For some reason, when I use dark brown it turns into a reddish color at the end of it all. 

That could be the type of leather you are trying to dye as well. I notice that different leathers take the dye differently. I think it has to do with the grain of the leather. I just finished a leather knife sheath (I posted pics of it in the Show Off forum)  that turned out a reddish brown marbled and although it looks good, it wasn't what I expected. And as for a sealant finish, I use Fiebing's Leather Sheen and I love that stuff! It comes in a spray can, is easy to apply and looks great when finished. See the link... You can find it online cheaper than that but the link was just so you could see what the product looked like

https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Leather-Sheen-11-Clear/dp/B005JET47M

Edited January 18, 2018 by JMcC

[f1humlam]

Hmm. I may have to try that. The resolene used in full strength definitely leaves it shiny.