backstitching to lock in a stitch?

[esantoro]

Are there some variations on backstitching to lock in a stitch?

I was watching a Tippmann Boss demo video the other day and noticed that the demo for locking in a stitch had the machine operator do two or three forward stitches, then the same backstitched, and then on with the rest of the forward stitching.

All I ususally do to start stitching is four or five backstitch (sometimes difficult to measure precisely the right length to the edge of my work) and then start stitching forward.

Thanks,

Ed

[Art]

Hi Ed,

Well, that may work well for thinner thread, but going over the same area three times with 346 will leave a pretty big mass of thread. Going backwards to start works pretty well, but you must keep your thread tails to the side and of course hold them tight and together. I usually don't back tack more than a couple of stitches; Needle in first hole, needle in second hole and up a little, shift into forward and continue. It helps to have three hands to do this two to hold the work and thread and one to wheel it. Conversely, if you have a servo motor you can crank that thing down on low speed and you only need two hands. If you have a machine without reverse you can start going the other direction and do a couple stitches then stop needle down and pivot the work 180° and continue sewing. Remember to keep the tails to the side of the work. On the Campbell you do the same thing or run a real tight loop and cross over and lock the starting point of your stitches, but you still have to lock them when stopping. I have also seen operators manually lift the work and position back a half a hole or so to lock.

Now, when you use big thread and you lock you can build up a large amount on the underside which can and will catch on the edge of the hole/slot for the needle in the needle plate. This will keep the leather from advancing even with the needle feed and screw up a bit. You have to lift the leading edge of the leather up to clear this edge. You can relieve this edge and provide a more gradual transition (polishing here helps too) to exit the needle slot. It you do relieve this edge make sure to blunt it just a little afterwards as you don't want it knife sharp.

Art

Are there some variations on backstitching to lock in a stitch?

I was watching a Tippmann Boss demo video the other day and noticed that the demo for locking in a stitch had the machine operator do two or three forward stitches, then the same backstitched, and then on with the rest of the forward stitching.

All I ususally do to start stitching is four or five backstitch (sometimes difficult to measure precisely the right length to the edge of my work) and then start stitching forward.

Thanks,

Ed

[esantoro]

Hi Ed,

Well, that may work well for thinner thread, but going over the same area three times with 346 will leave a pretty big mass of thread. Going backwards to start works pretty well, but you must keep your thread tails to the side and of course hold them tight and together. I usually don't back tack more than a couple of stitches; Needle in first hole, needle in second hole and up a little, shift into forward and continue. It helps to have three hands to do this two to hold the work and thread and one to wheel it. Conversely, if you have a servo motor you can crank that thing down on low speed and you only need two hands. If you have a machine without reverse you can start going the other direction and do a couple stitches then stop needle down and pivot the work 180° and continue sewing. Remember to keep the tails to the side of the work. On the Campbell you do the same thing or run a real tight loop and cross over and lock the starting point of your stitches, but you still have to lock them when stopping. I have also seen operators manually lift the work and position back a half a hole or so to lock.

Now, when you use big thread and you lock you can build up a large amount on the underside which can and will catch on the edge of the hole/slot for the needle in the needle plate. This will keep the leather from advancing even with the needle feed and screw up a bit. You have to lift the leading edge of the leather up to clear this edge. You can relieve this edge and provide a more gradual transition (polishing here helps too) to exit the needle slot. It you do relieve this edge make sure to blunt it just a little afterwards as you don't want it knife sharp.

Art

Thanks, Art. Much of what you've explained has happened to me and still happens. Quite often I end up simply stitching forward. I leave enough thread free so that I can lock in the stitching by saddlestitching by hand. I pretty much do this for all the stitches, which adds considerable time in making my cases.

Ed