HOW DO I CUT LEATHER ACCURATELY?!

[samNZJP]

Hello,

Recently I've been trying to refine my techniques and I'm not quite sure on the best practices for cutting leather. First I'll outline my technique for the wallets that I'm trying to make.

1. Work out my measurements. Ruler to leather and trace away.

2. Bust out the craft knife and slice away.

 

I feel if I am cutting two identical pieces that there are slight errors due to the leather bend while cutting, or simply just starting a mm on or off the trace line...

Are people getting plastic molds made so that things are easier to cut or what? Take this example from Chestermox, how is this so perfect each time?!

 

Regards,

 

Perfectionist Sam

 

[KingsCountyLeather]

He is cutting around a template of some description or using a clicker die.

I find Pinterest and Instagram another great source of information and inspiration for leather work. (Other than Leatherworker.net) 

[samNZJP]

Clicker die. That's what those are called!

I'm definitely getting some made at some point.

[KittenThrasher]

A big fat steel rule and a rotary cutter will help a lot, the fat steel rule will stop the leather moving at all (I even clamp the ruler down sometimes) and a rotary cutter (as used by dressmakers etc.) goes through thin leather without 'pulling' it at all. 

Acrylic templates are excellent if you can find someone with a laser to cut them for you. I used to hand cut my own 3mm acrylic templates, it's tedious but quite do-able. 

[samNZJP]

Must be able to order them somewhere. I got a rotary cutter but it was a right handed one. Need to find a left handed one.

[samNZJP]

I wonder if Equus leather uses clicker dies.

[koreric75]

I use this for some of my thinner stuff, like liner and up to ~4oz with multiple patterns...Cricut explore air 2.  It took a little trial and error, but i have a pretty good process down to get the right cuts and setting the right material settings for what i'm cutting.

[bikermutt07]

A lot of times the thinner leather will stretch when you get to the end of a cut. Drove me nuts when I first started.

There are a few things to help overcome it.

Rotary cutter is probably the cheapest option. I like the grey one in the leather section of hobby lobby. It's about 10-12 bucks. The olfa 45mm blades for this knife.

Another option is a sharp head knife. You can roll the blade at the end of the cut eliminating the stretching.

If you are going to keep using the craft knife strop the blade, even if it is a disposable. It will help.

If you cut your successive pockets out a little large you can lay your first pocket on top of them for.a more precise fit. Then sand to your final dimension.

Black River Laser has some great templates here in the states. They also will make custom acrylic templates for you. Wuta Leather is another one of my favorites and they have free worldwide shipping.

If you want clicker dies, which is probably the best but most expensive investment, look to Texas Custom Dies. They are one of our sponsors here. They can also make mallet dies for you if they are small enough.

Edited March 20, 2018 by bikermutt07

[KingsCountyLeather]

10 hours ago, samNZJP said:

I wonder if Equus leather uses clicker dies.

With the quality of workmanship and the accuracy he has to cut leather including his exotic leathers and also how busy he seems to be, I’d be very surprised if he doesn’t use a hydraulic clicker press.

[koreric75]

14 hours ago, samNZJP said:

Take this example from Chestermox, how is this so perfect each time?!

I venture these are from a clicker, they're cut and pressed with the rolled edge/border look and possibly more than one at a time if he has a large working area for his press and the cutter die to do it.  I'd want at least 3-6 pockets cut at once to do a wallet as well as the liner if used.

[alpha2]

The clicker die is like a cookie cutter. The steel rulers I have are cork backed, which is nice, 'cause they don't slip, but the steel edge is just far enough above the thinner leather that it can move and stretch. The acrylic patterns are excellent. They're right on the leather. But you have to hold them firmly AT THE CUT!

Also, BOTH of my Olfa rotary cutters can be changed to the other "handed-ness".

Also, also...What Bikermutt said is true, for some reason the leather loves to moves just a smidgen at the end of the cut. Leather can be evil, sometimes. 

Edited March 20, 2018 by alpha2

[KittenThrasher]

Rotary cutter blades are expensive, (decent ones at any rate,) I made a simple jig to mount  them on a dremel where a quick 'touch up' with a fine diamond stone or even fine wet-n-dry puts a good edge back on it.

Make sure they're fixed on your dremel properly though as my first experience of this resulted in a rotary blade whizzing around the kitchen at very high speed. ooops.

[koreric75]

I've been getting these for my olfa 45mm, it cuts great and lasts for many cuts.  @bikermutt07 and I cut up some sb footleather with it and it made it through, but could've used a good strop towards the end...lol rotary blades

[TheCyberwolfe]

4 hours ago, KittenThrasher said:

Rotary cutter blades are expensive, (decent ones at any rate,) I made a simple jig to mount  them on a dremel where a quick 'touch up' with a fine diamond stone or even fine wet-n-dry puts a good edge back on it.

Make sure they're fixed on your dremel properly though as my first experience of this resulted in a rotary blade whizzing around the kitchen at very high speed. ooops.

Or you could just buy the $15 hand sharpener at the craft store and not risk accidental death or dismemberment

[MedusaOblongata]

19 hours ago, TheCyberwolfe said:

Or you could just buy the $15 hand sharpener at the craft store and not risk accidental death or dismemberment

Where's your sense of adventure?