Singer 212 / 112 Double Needle >> converting into split needle

[Constabulary]

This is no science and a rather simple conversion but yet I haven`t seen any threads on this topic. I think it could be useful for some bag makers and upholstery folks.

Split needle bar machines (you can disengage and reengage the entire left and right needle bar on these machines) are rather expensive so converting a plain Singer type double needle machine into a split needle machine (disengage and reengage just the left or right needle holder) is a rather cheap alternative for low volume or single piece projects. The purpose of a split needle bar machine is that you can sew right angle double seams w/o sewing small boxes in the corners when you make a right angle turn. If these small boxes don´t bother you its okay (they can look cool too) but on some projects I think you don´t want to have this.

You can also sew french seams with 1 machine in 2 steps. Lift 1 needle - sew 2 pieces together - lower the needle and make the double row seam - done.

A few technical things reg. Singer (and other brand) double needle needle feed machines like the 212 and 112 (all to my best knowledge). There are basically two types of gauge sets - #1 is a push in type where you push the double needle holder in to the needle bar and #2 is a double needle holder you screw into the needle bar. Maybe there is even a fixed type where you can´t remove the needle holder - I don´t know.

I think the older Singer 112 originally had the #1 type and the 212 had the #2 type but as often you never know if a used machine has been converted so I think you can find either type in either machine. I´m using the #2 type here - not sure if there is a push in split needle holder (don´t think so). However 112 and 212 are using the same diameter needle bar so you can always switch form a push in (or fixed?) needle bar to a screw in needle bar by changing the needle bar.

So - I once bought my 212 machine with a "shifted needle" gauge set where the left and right needle are a bit shifted from the center. I had no use for this setup. So I wanted to switch to a 1/4" distance gauge set and maybe later to a 3/8" gauge set.

Switching standard gauge set is a rather simple task - change feed dog, needle plate, presser foot and needle holder, adjust hook saddles and gears - done.

The problem with the split needle holder is that it is quite a bit longer that the standard needle holder. So when the split needle holder is installed it will hit the needle bar rock frame and the flat bed because the needle bar cannot execute the full stroke. And of course the hook cannot grab the thread because of this.

So what I did is I removed the needle bar rock frame with it´s shaft and the thread take up lever and cut a piece of the lower needle bar guide. Furthermore I cut down the top end of the needle bar because it otherwise would hit the casting when the needle bar rises. Reinstalled everything, adjusted the two hook saddles, gears and the needle / hook timing and I was ready to go.

Not sure if cutting the NB guide on the NB rock frame is necessary on 112 type machines but it is necessary on the 212 because of the long lower den NB guide.

Removing the NB rock frame and thread take up lever is no science and you don´t have to be a sewing machine engineer. The procedures are well described in either manual.

Edited March 29, 2018 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

Some pictures:

Picture 1 + 2 - needle holder hitting NB rock frame and flat bed

 

Removed NB rock frame w. shaft and thread take up lever

 

Cut down lower end NB guide of NB rock frame and upper end of the needle bar

 

Reinstalled everything incl. the gauge set parts

 

This is how it works

 

Edited March 29, 2018 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

Ready to go  - quick test by hand cranking with 120 needle round tip and size 30 cotton thread (both metric).  Not too bad but it needs some fine tuning and I need some practice

Edited March 29, 2018 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

Note:

The pull knob of the right needle holder can hit the casting when set in the upper position. So you either don`t raise the knob fully or you have to make a cut out in the casting. Personally I do not raise the knob fully and it works w/o problems.

If you want to install a split needle holder of more than 3/8 needle distance you most likely have to make a cut out in the casting due to the width of the needle holder unit. I have a 1/4" and 3/8" needle holder and both work without making a cut out.

These split needle holder can be found on Ebay and I´m sure most of the well known sewing machine dealers who support this forum can supply you too.

Edited March 29, 2018 by Constabulary

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Those used to be pretty popular, cutting the bushing was almost always a given.  I don't think our suppliers domestic even carry those anymore.  

[gottaknow]

Those were common in factories in the 70’s and 80’s. Thank goodness machine companies started building split needle bar machines. In 1984, the company I worked for bought 20 Consew 327RB-1’s. Pretty decent machines using the Variostop air-gap motors with needle positioning, which makes sewing with a split bar much easier. Mitsubishi figured out how to include under bed trimmers on their 2200 series split bars, not for the feint of heart to adjust the knife linkages to work after changing gauge sets. Today, Juki’s split bars are much easier to do re-adjust the knife mechanisms. 

Regards, Eric 

[VanRhodes]

Ive got an old needle gauge set that will let you flip the needle to the side to achieve the same effect that you have. Quite interesting, came on an old Durkopp 239 needle feed. 

 

 

[Constabulary]

Hey VanRhodes - how is it going with your Singer 7 - or was it an Adler 20?

But The Duerkopp 239 is a 1 need tripe feed machine or has it been converted to a 2 needle machine - flat bed should be long enough for that.

[VanRhodes]

My bad, it's a  Durkopp 249-2. 

 

The singer 7-33 is done and I'm looking to flip it as I picked up a Seiko SLH-2B-FH-1 and the Adler 20 is being converted in to a CNC machine, but it's taking a little time as I need to finish up some CAD parts for the motor mounts. 

[Constabulary]

Just had a request where I found the flip up split needle assys  - they are from Ebay and they are on sale right now:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=singer+flip+up&_sacat=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singer+flip+up%3AvDAAAOSwI-BWL6GR%3Ark%3A1%3Apf%3A0

Just for the case someone else is looking too.

[R41T3]

Hello Constabulary, sorry to bother you.

Il thinking in buying a singer 212g141in order to work with leather and I'm asking myself what kind of projects can I do with and what needles do you use for leather working in this machine. 

My idea is to do wallets, bags and a little of upholstery for my bike and car.

Do you think is a good machine? Do you regret about buying it?

Thanks for your time

[Constabulary]

First thing you have to ask your self is if you really need a double needle machine for your projects. When you know you will barely sew double seams better buy a single needle machine. I´m barely using my 212 cause most of my work does not require a double seam. I just have this machine cause it was fairly cheap back then so I just keep it. I just have the head not the whole setup (swapping the sewing machine heads in the table). I`m mainly sewing canvas and similar. I do not recall what the original needle system was for the 212 but mine is setup for 135x17 or 13x16 for leather (same needle just different needle tips).

[R41T3]

Thanks for your answer.

One more question, does it means that there's no way to sew with only one needle in that machine?

Or if I do, there wont be a way to make the curves on the sew?

Double needle will not be mandatory for me, but will be good to have forme those case where is needed.

[R41T3]

Ok, two more questions ahahaha

I have the opportunity of buying a Mitsubishi DY-430 or a Durkopp 212.

I don't know in terms of parts and durability of the machine. 

Do you have an idea?

[Constabulary]

You can sew with 1 needle on a double needle machine but that can only be a compromise cause you are limited to 1 single foot that matches the needle space (different needle spaces require complete new gauge sets for each needle space). You can modify a 2nd foot but that still is a compromise and IMO not ideal if you want to use this machine for a longer time.

 

[R41T3]

Perfect. So definitely I will not buy this machine. Thanks a lot. 

I have the opportunity of buying a Mitsubishi DY-430 or a Durkopp 212.

I don't know in terms of parts and durability of the machine. 

Do you have an idea?