TwinOaks Report post Posted February 1, 2008 Hi all, I have some powdered oxalic acid in a Tandy bag. It is unhelpfully devoid of instructions. Will someone please provide the uses and directions for using crystallized oxalic acid? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted February 1, 2008 I don't think I can help you with that, I think you're supposed to dissolve a teaspoon in a pint of warm water, but don't quote me on that. However, I would love to know where you got it from. As a matter of fact, does anyone know where I would be able to acquire crystallized oxalic acid? Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorsehairBraider Report post Posted February 1, 2008 Here's one place to buy it: Oxalic Acid Crystals I have used it in dyeing fiber, but I don't know why a leather person would want it. Here is a Wikipedia article about it, and it lists a lot of uses. Perhaps someone who has used it will chime in and enlighten us all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Craw Report post Posted February 1, 2008 If you've been working a long time (days) on a really large (saddle part) hunk of leather stamping, you can use oxalic acid solution to take black mold marks off leather. Make sure you are totally don with your tooling, 'cause it makes the leather really hard. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted February 1, 2008 I don't think I can help you with that, I think you're supposed to dissolve a teaspoon in a pint of warm water, but don't quote me on that. However, I would love to know where you got it from. As a matter of fact, does anyone know where I would be able to acquire crystallized oxalic acid?Marlon I get mine from from my local pharmacist. It lasts ages. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hidemechanic Report post Posted February 1, 2008 Also helps in removing oils and smudges you've left on leather from you hands. GH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericluther Report post Posted February 1, 2008 Ive read its used as a cleaner before dyeing, the ratio I read is 1 tablespoon crystals to 1 quart water. In higher concentrations they say it will bleach the leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted February 1, 2008 When I was using it, I bought it at about any hardware and lumber yards. It is sold as "Wood Bleach" crystals. And yes, the mix I used was 1 tbsp to 1qt. add the acid to the water and wear glasses, standard safety deal. It was recommended on another list a while back that once the action has happened to apply saddle soap to neutralize the acid. Haven't tried that, since I haven't used oxalic acid for a while. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjbleather Report post Posted February 1, 2008 Twin Oaks, Yes the mix is one teaspoon to a pint of warm water. I use a pint Mason jar with a canning lid. In this way, you can get a new lid when the other starts eating away. I only do the pint bit because you don't use much if you are a casual hobbiest like I am. I can imagine that with the quantity of things that Bruce makes, a quart would be better. I bought my can of crystals from a pharmacist. When using this, make sure that you neutralize or wask it off. Because it can effect the dying. Many people recommend using Real Lemon juice because it is not as acidic and will easily wipe off. I still use the oxalic acid because I am too lazy to keep going back and forth to my fridge where I keep Real Lemon. However, I do dilute it with water on my sponge before applying. It has worked for me. Carlb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cecil Report post Posted February 2, 2008 Al Stohlman says to use 1 teaspoon of oxalic acid crystals in a pint of water on page 3 of How to Color Leather. It is used to clean the leather before dying. Hope this is useful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cecil Report post Posted February 3, 2008 I just ordered some from the local drug store. They did not know what it was, but they checked and they could order the crystals. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcurrier Report post Posted February 3, 2008 Barkeeper's Friend (stainless steel cleaner) is basically Oxalic acid. Never occurred to me to use it for leather, though. Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DelNeroDesigns Report post Posted February 8, 2008 I don't think I can help you with that, I think you're supposed to dissolve a teaspoon in a pint of warm water, but don't quote me on that. However, I would love to know where you got it from. As a matter of fact, does anyone know where I would be able to acquire crystallized oxalic acid?Marlon I bought it to bleach wood when trying to color match a piece. Check with a woodworkers supply. Are you using it to bleach leather? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BevJones Report post Posted February 8, 2008 Caledon Leather Sales has it too. They are on this site under the Suppliers. Click on the link and then select Supplies, scroll towards the bottom and you will find it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted February 8, 2008 Well, I thought it could be used to bleach leather. I've done some pieces that required WHITE and I don't really want to get into partially painted pieces- keeping mostly with the natural look ya' see. So, I thought it might bleach the leather whiter than just the tanned color. I also tried it to try and pull a drop of brown spirit dye out of a piece. oops. Sometimes the obvious needs to be clearly printed on the label: If you are new to coloring leather, do not dribble this stuff where you don't want it 'cause it will NEVER come out. like I said...oops. Thanks for the info on the uses of the O.A. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DelNeroDesigns Report post Posted February 9, 2008 Well, I thought it could be used to bleach leather. I've done some pieces that required WHITE and I don't really want to get into partially painted pieces- keeping mostly with the natural look ya' see. So, I thought it might bleach the leather whiter than just the tanned color. I also tried it to try and pull a drop of brown spirit dye out of a piece. oops. Sometimes the obvious needs to be clearly printed on the label: If you are new to coloring leather, do not dribble this stuff where you don't want it 'cause it will NEVER come out. like I said...oops. Thanks for the info on the uses of the O.A. I can relate to that.. I inadvetinly bleached my colored concrete drvieway while rinsing off a board I was bleaching. It's powerful stuff! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rusty Report post Posted February 10, 2008 I don't think I can help you with that, I think you're supposed to dissolve a teaspoon in a pint of warm water, but don't quote me on that. However, I would love to know where you got it from. As a matter of fact, does anyone know where I would be able to acquire crystallized oxalic acid?Marlon I buy mine from S-T Leather in St. Louis, MO. It costs $3.50 plus shipping for an 8 ounce package. Rusty Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stelmackr Report post Posted February 10, 2008 Will someone please provide the uses and directions for using crystallized oxalic acid? Dissolved in water and used to clean (or bleach) leather, wood. It is poison and can be absorbed through the skin and damages the liver. If used before applying Tandy's Antique dye, it turns the color purpleish. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freddo Report post Posted December 22, 2008 Dissolved in water and used to clean (or bleach) leather, wood. It is poison and can be absorbed through the skin and damages the liver. If used before applying Tandy's Antique dye, it turns the color purpleish. Bob A couple more questions: 1) Someone recommends neutralizing the leather afteer you clean it with an oxalic acid wash. How do you do that? 2) How do you apply the oxalic acid wash to the leather? Can you use a sponge or paper towel? 3) Is the wash (1 tsp/pint or whatever the mixture posted above was) safe to handle with bare hands or should you use gloves? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rhonda Report post Posted January 10, 2009 Dissolved in water and used to clean (or bleach) leather, wood. It is poison and can be absorbed through the skin and damages the liver. If used before applying Tandy's Antique dye, it turns the color purpleish. Bob Poison, skin absorbtion, liver damage. Now this is a scary thought. Maybe my teacher was a little off, but he taught me to use Bleach to bleach leather. No acid, no crystals. 2 tablespoons Bleach, mixed with water. I use a 16 ounce pickle jar to store it. (cleaned out of course) I have NEVER used the acid stuff. He taught me bleach does exactly what the acid does, and a gallon of bleach goes a whole lot farther. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 10, 2009 A couple more questions:1) Someone recommends neutralizing the leather afteer you clean it with an oxalic acid wash. How do you do that? 2) How do you apply the oxalic acid wash to the leather? Can you use a sponge or paper towel? 3) Is the wash (1 tsp/pint or whatever the mixture posted above was) safe to handle with bare hands or should you use gloves? 1. Use saddlesoap to clean the leather after the acid wash 2. a sponge works well, use circular motions. 3. Wear nitrile gloves. Even though it is a mild acid, it still should be treated as an acid. Take care. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted January 10, 2009 (edited) I use oxalic acid on all my projects. I put the acid solution in a spray bottle (1 tablespoon/quart of water) and with a fine spray, apply it directly onto the piece and scrub lightly with a piece of scrap woolskin. I do this after I dye my background. If I were going to dye the complete background I think I would use the acid first. I think it is important to keep the level of saturation equal so that no light spots are created. I usually do not try to wash again with water as is recommended per the instructions. Once it is dry I oil and then finish in my normal manner. I have found it not to effect the color of my antique finish. The spray bottle is handy, and I sometimes find myself spraying directly onto my woolskin rather than to the leather. I think I'll start wearing a latex glove though... Edited January 10, 2009 by hidepounder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites