Clean antiquing/highlighting

[Gabriel Rasa]

On 4/24/2018 at 12:50 PM, Bob Blea said:

I've settled on Wyo Sheen (now sold by Barry King) as my resist of choice which is a lacquer based product (like Neat Lac.)

Still I have to put at least two coats on and I test the piece with a damp sponge before applying antique. If the leather darkens at all then the antique will penetrate the resist and it needs another coat.  Finally if I do see streaks or unevenness on the leather I found that baby wipes work really well to remove those streaks.

!! Thank you kindly, I think this is exactly the information I was looking for. And testing it with a sponge beforehand is something I feel like I should have thought of myself. XD

[Boriqua]

15 hours ago, Gabriel Rasa said:

'Chased'?

This tooling is actually several years old, it was just the only pic I had on hand of a highlighted/un-highlighted contrast (and trust me, no one is more aware of its imperfections than me) -- but I think I'm unfamiliar with the technique you're suggesting? (Or don't know it by that name.)

;D This is the lesson I've been trying to beat into my ADD protege. DO NOT. TRY TO. RUSH THIS.

Chased, Walked .. one and the same... I can see where the bevel tool looks like an individual stamp so the method you are using isnt being walked.

I dont know .. maybe there is another term. It is one of the hardest things I ever learned in carving and  ...... I still suck! There are many threads on how to use the bevel tool and I think its covered in one the the Stohlman books. I find the most satisfying method is to get a machine like rhythm So that when you are beveling it is tap move tap move tap move as you go along. I get my best work when what someone would hear if they were next to me is  Tap, tap, tap tap in a somewhat rapid and even cadence. Think a slowed down sewing machine

In the early days when I would hit the beveler then move it and then hit it again deliberately I would get the same kind of individual bevel marks I see in the piece you posted. If I had to guess I would say because they overlap isnt right and its hard to hit with a very consistent force when you hit it ..... move it .... set up the tool ... and hit it again .. so you get more varied bevel marks.

Hope that made some sense but if not look up beveler here and there is lots of advice.

 

[Gabriel Rasa]

16 minutes ago, Boriqua said:

Chased, Walked .. one and the same... I can see where the bevel tool looks like an individual stamp so the method you are using isnt being walked.

I dont know .. maybe there is another term. It is one of the hardest things I ever learned in carving and  ...... I still suck! There are many threads on how to use the bevel tool and I think its covered in one the the Stohlman books. I find the most satisfying method is to get a machine like rhythm So that when you are beveling it is tap move tap move tap move as you go along. I get my best work when what someone would hear if they were next to me is  Tap, tap, tap tap in a somewhat rapid and even cadence. Think a slowed down sewing machine

In the early days when I would hit the beveler then move it and then hit it again deliberately I would get the same kind of individual bevel marks I see in the piece you posted. If I had to guess I would say because they overlap isnt right and its hard to hit with a very consistent force when you hit it ..... move it .... set up the tool ... and hit it again .. so you get more varied bevel marks.

Hope that made some sense but if not look up beveler here and there is lots of advice.

 

Ohh, yeah okay, I know that as "walking" the tool. (You said chasing, and my brain went to chasing and repousse.) That's not a problem anymore, but the patchy antiquing still is.

[Bob Blea]

On ‎4‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 7:50 PM, Gabriel Rasa said:

!! Thank you kindly, I think this is exactly the information I was looking for. And testing it with a sponge beforehand is something I feel like I should have thought of myself. XD

Ha!  Don't feel bad.  I had many years of antique job 'surprises' before I saw someone else post the idea about using the sponge.  It didn't ever occur to me either.

Much improved on the beveling in the latest piece.  That looks pretty cool.

[Gabriel Rasa]

On 4/24/2018 at 12:50 PM, Bob Blea said:

I've settled on Wyo Sheen (now sold by Barry King) as my resist of choice which is a lacquer based product (like Neat Lac.)

Hmm, apparently Tandy stopped carrying Neat Lac, and ideally I'd like to pick something up local so I can start using it right away. (I've got Wyosheen on the way, but I'm impatient. :D) Can you recommend any substitute that would make do in the mean time?

[garypl]

I use a couple of coats of Resolene as a resist and it works well.

Gary

[Bob Blea]

On ‎5‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 1:21 PM, Gabriel Rasa said:

Hmm, apparently Tandy stopped carrying Neat Lac, and ideally I'd like to pick something up local so I can start using it right away. (I've got Wyosheen on the way, but I'm impatient. :D) Can you recommend any substitute that would make do in the mean time?

WyoSheen is a lacquer and I've been told that 'Brushing lacquer' from your local hardware or woodworking store will work the same way.  I've never tried it myself but the people I've heard this from are pretty good leatherworkers so I trust them.  But try it on some scrap first.

Bob