lifters

[JohnD]

I have heard a few folks talk about lifters and was thinking about getting one (some?). Looking at some web sites, I see the patterns they make but no pictures of the tool itself.

I have also heard a few people talk of making their own and was wondering if someone might post a photo of one, homemade or not, so that I can see if it is within my skill set? Thanks.

John

[ClayB]

I have heard a few folks talk about lifters and was thinking about getting one (some?). Looking at some web sites, I see the patterns they make but no pictures of the tool itself.

I have also heard a few people talk of making their own and was wondering if someone might post a photo of one, homemade or not, so that I can see if it is within my skill set? Thanks.

John

Hi John,

There are different things used to do lifting. The pro petal is being discussed in another thread here on the forum. There are also stamping tools that are called lifters. Here are a couple pictures that show some.

In the top picture, the top tool is a Craftool undercut beveler. The second is a Barry King petal lifter and the black tool is a Bob Beard version. Barry's tool kind of pushes up the leather making a ridge, where Bob's actually cuts deep into the leather and all the way into your marble underneath if you aren't careful. Doesn't seem to hurt the tool any and they are guaranteed. The Craftool version is sort of in between. It also has a more square face so it doesn't fit as well into the curved parts of leaves.

This picture shows a bottom veiw of the tools.

Here is a picture of several different pro petal tools.

Hope that helps.

Clay

[JohnD]

Thanks Clay, That's exactly the info I was looking for. I think I actually have one like the craftool, only a bit smaller. I just had no idea that's what it was. Thanks again.

John

Edited June 30, 2007 by JohnD

[JohnD]

So, I finally got around to making one of these and as I was messing around trying to use it, it came to me that I should ask if there is a proper way to use one. I think I have the basic gist, but it looks really sloppy and doesn't seem that it would stand up to any kind of wear.

I know pics would be useful here but I use my cell and my dog ate my sd card adapter. Any tips would be very much appreciated.

Just in case anyone was wondering: I took an old screw driver and, using a cutoff wheel, cut the tip off at an angle about 3-3.5" from the handle. I then used a belt sander to flatten and clean up the cut and also, soften the back edge of the cut. I cleaned every thing up with a file and hit the buffing wheel a bit. I took the time not to heat it up too much so as not to ruin the hardening ( even though the tool won't see such heavy duty use. ). I have picked out a few different diameter screwdrivers ( torx head, I have a whole drawer full that I've never used. Now I'll need one) so I can make a set if I need different sizes.

Thanks for any replies.

John

[Go2Tex]

..........Just in case anyone was wondering: I took an old screw driver and, using a cutoff wheel, cut the tip off at an angle about 3-3.5" from the handle. I then used a belt sander to flatten and clean up the cut and also, soften the back edge of the cut. ...........

John

Yeah, been there tried that, making my own. Then I realized how much friggin time I spent doing it and the cost of a good tool started looking really cheap!

I use the Barry King lifters and I can pull those babies up enough to hide lots of dirt and debris for years to come. :biggrin:

As for how long they'll stay up there, that depends on the leather and just how much abuse it gets. Good firm skirting wil hold the shape for as long as anybody will care about on a saddle.

[JohnD]

Go2tex,

It really only took me about 5-10 minutes and wasn't any trouble because I enjoy that sort of thing.

What I'm wondering is: Is there a proper technique for using a lifter? Or is it the way that seems obvious? The way I did it was to stick the tip into the bevel and sort of pry up on the part i wanted to lift. The first time it kind of tore the grain side up from the flesh side? so I eased up a little but it seemed to wrinkle on the grain side as I went and then seemed flimsy.

I hope this is the right forum for this should I have put this in the "how do you do that?" section?

Thanks for the response,

John

[cjbleather]

Go2tex,

It really only took me about 5-10 minutes and wasn't any trouble because I enjoy that sort of thing.

What I'm wondering is: Is there a proper technique for using a lifter? Or is it the way that seems obvious? The way I did it was to stick the tip into the bevel and sort of pry up on the part i wanted to lift. The first time it kind of tore the grain side up from the flesh side? so I eased up a little but it seemed to wrinkle on the grain side as I went and then seemed flimsy.

I hope this is the right forum for this should I have put this in the "how do you do that?" section?

Thanks for the response,

John

John D, My take on how to use a push lifter or Pro Petal (in TAndy lanquage). Yes, I bevel first and then use the ProPetal by sliding under the bevel and keeping the cut consistent as to depth. I use the Pro Petal as a knife to go as far as I want, lifting at the same time. [i wish I could find out how to start a new paragraph here} Just take my word that this is a new paragraph. However, when using the Craftool, Barry King, or Bob Beard stamps, you usually use them in lieu of a beveler. In fact the various sizes of stamps allow them to be used for various convex curves, as one would encounter in an oak leaf. As Clay noted, the Craftool stamp does not have as much rounding as those made by Barry King and Bob Beard. Barry's stamps are made especially for Sheridan style carving with a steep angle. I am not sure if Bob's are also. They may have less of an angle, so they would most often be used in standard western floral or whatever one calls it. I hope this addresses your question. Carl

[Roger]

here are the ones i made. they are both made from stainless round stock. shaped on a sander then polished out on the bottom.

[Beaverslayer]

Beeza,

You have to stop teasing us with that seat I see in the background...

Ken

[JohnD]

Thanks for the responses.

Yes Carl, That was very helpful and I will return the favor

If you hit the enter key at the end of the paragraph,

The cursor will drop down to the next line. You can even hit it more than once....

To increase the space between paragraphs.

Thanks again for the help, I guess I just need some practice.

John

[freak]

I was at TLF the other day and i noticed some new modiling tools. They where black and shaped just a little diff. I made a comment about them and looked at a few and went on with my business. I get home and i have a new 2008 catalog introdutory sale paper. In it i see the "Craftool Pro Modeling Tools" # 8039-05 is a "Samll/Large udercut is for beveling and outlining" for just around $10. One tool with 2 diff sizes. Wish i would of seen that while i was there. ARGGG!!!

click here for link to the tool

Oh well i'll just have to force myself to run back by there.

[whinewine]

I was at TLF the other day and i noticed some new modiling tools. They where black and shaped just a little diff. I made a comment about them and looked at a few and went on with my business. I get home and i have a new 2008 catalog introdutory sale paper. In it i see the "Craftool Pro Modeling Tools" # 8039-05 is a "Samll/Large udercut is for beveling and outlining" for just around $10. One tool with 2 diff sizes. Wish i would of seen that while i was there. ARGGG!!!

click here for link to the tool

Oh well i'll just have to force myself to run back by there.

This looks surprisingly like tandy's old deerfoot modeling tool- a deerfoot on each end- one each of a different size. the originals were not sharpened & were primarily used as modeling tools, although they could be used as lifters, but did differ in efficiency from real, sharpened propetal or petal lifters (the ones with the wooden handle that give you more control by allowing you to slice into the leather). i'm sure these can be sharpened, but then you're always concerned about slicing your hand on the end closest to it.

[Patrice]

I was at TLF the other day and i noticed some new modiling tools. They where black and shaped just a little diff. I made a comment about them and looked at a few and went on with my business. I get home and i have a new 2008 catalog introdutory sale paper. In it i see the "Craftool Pro Modeling Tools" # 8039-05 is a "Samll/Large udercut is for beveling and outlining" for just around $10. One tool with 2 diff sizes. Wish i would of seen that while i was there. ARGGG!!!

click here for link to the tool

Oh well i'll just have to force myself to run back by there.

I just order this tool and hope to received it real soon.

But, as i reading this topic, i began to fear that this tool will not work properly if not sharpened.

So, if i wich to use i as a lifter, should i sharpened the tool or just stroped it?