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Elennah

Which machine for attaching shoe uppers to insoles?

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I am looking for a machine that can do this:


image.png.452f4433423a6e876455672d02742379.png

I make shoes mainly as gifts, so the price of the machine is definitely a big consideration. I use an old Singer 31-15 for decorating the uppers, so it would be a big plus if the machine could use the same table. Not a must, though. I believe the machine in the picture is a Singer 45K something, but I am looking for any machine that could do the job without causing lots of swearing.

Thank you for any thoughts on the matter!

(The photo is from the website of shoemaker Ruth Emily Davey, just to give credit where it belongs.)

 

Edited by Elennah

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Hi, well the 45k89 in the picture would sew your leather as in the picture. if you start adding more sole etc.. then it might not do the job as well as an outsole sticher would. that is what i would say you would be looking for. although Singer did make the 45k68,69 and 71 for stitching soles, which is similar to the one in the picture but not exactly the same. if you are near Germany then look for a Frobana or a Gritzner outsole sticher. another option would be the Rafflenbeul MS55 or 200 which is a needle and awl type machine but also compact in size like the Frobana and Gritzner, and it feeds with the needle and not with teeth. in the UK i think similar was the Simplex and a victor. the needles for these  first  two machines are €9-10 ouch, i mean each. and uses left twist waxed linen 6-8 cord thread normally. if you can do the job as in your picture you might be able to pick up a cheap 45k  and if it works then no swearing as an added bonus... :lol: here are a couple of pictures, i have just done this afternoon one on the 45k25. the other was done on the frobana. hope this helps.

20180522_211458.jpgthis was with the 45k25

20180518_130911.jpgthis was with the frobana

20180522_211518.jpgfrobana

20180522_220233.thumb.jpg.797ffe3096efb44d0518c080a0e049bd.jpg45k25

Edited by jimi

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Thanks so much, jimi!

To clarify, I am actually in the US these days.

I have a Frobana, but it is way overkill for me, especially as mine came with number 5 needles and needle plate.In other words, the holes it makes are huge. I looked into replacing the plate and needles with number 3's, but the quotes I got cost as much as a new machine. However, I have been hanging onto my Frobana, in case I ever start to make sandals.

 I should have mentioned that the shoes I make many would rather call slippers: I glue on a very thin sheet of crepe. Therefore, I am looking for more of a multi tasker, rather than just a shoe soler.

Edited by Elennah

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Oh ok. i do not think there are nº3 needles made anymore, just 4 and 5. if you needed a nº4 plate best to ask people when they are selling their machines as sometimes they will sell these parts alone. if you are looking for a multi tasker then an old working 45k type machine would probably sew your thin soles no problem (as in your picture). or a second hand triple feed like the cowboy or 441 type clones.

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well there is a lot of different classes of 45k but the basic 45k1 or 21 would sew the leather in your picture. where you might be limited is with the type of foot for side clearance etc.. if you look up singer 45k here on the LW forum i am sure you will see some different types. there are ones that are for darning sacks and have no feed underneath, better not look for that type.

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Elannah, you can get a basic Chinese clone of the 45K in the US for about $1000, including a modern servo motor. Needles in all sorts of sizes are cheap and readily available, as are a selection of accessories. This also avoids the wear and parts availability issues of buying a 'real' 45K, which has been out of production for decades. Alternatively if stitching the upper to the midsole like the photo you show is the heaviest work you're likely to do, you might want to look at a slightly lighter duty, more general-purpose leather-sewing machine like a Consew 226. This should handle (what looks like) 8mm thickness just fine. The beauty of such a machine is that you could then change needle, thread and adjust tension to sew uppers, or indeed many other sewing tasks, with the same machine.

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Thank you!

The thing is, the machine is going to be sitting in our living room most of the time, unused, so looks matter, too. :D

 I think a new 1000 buck machine would likely be a wonderful experience, but a lot of money, considering I only sew about once a month. I don't see myself ever starting to sell, as my shoes are so expensive to make, both materials (European veg tanned leather for kids) and time. Thus my husband might not appreciate throwing more money into this hobby than I really need to.

I am keeping an eye on Craigslist and such, but I think this may be a long project, living in WI.

 

Edit: Just realized I have something worth about a thousand that I might sell, which kind of changes the situation... If someone has idea about new machines, I would be interested in looking at those, also. In that case, I would likely want to use it for the uppers, also.  Doesn't change the looks issue, though, unless it could be rolled into a closet...

Edited by Elennah

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