Hello and question about gusset

[cantsewstraight]

Greetings from, ordinarily, sunny Florida.  I've been working with leather for only a brief time -- made a few axe and knife sheathes, a small pouch, and a journal cover -- and would like to make a bag similar to the one featured in the picture. I can't seem to wrap my head around how the double gusset wraps around or is attached.  Will the leather just bend to conform or does it need to be cut?  I'd like to avoid the triangles often seen with an accordion gusset. Any help will be greatly appreciated.  I've looked for the answer elsewhere on the site but couldn't find one. If this has been answered, please direct me to that thread. Thanks,

Rob

[Deryk]

well it would depend on the leather that you are using.  I would choose something soft to medium stiffness so that it could bend around like that.  

 

Edited May 24, 2018 by Deryk

[bermudahwin]

Most bags with such gussets have some kind of forming or light stiffening inside the leather.

Many from the likes of Tusting in the UK have a fabric inside which helps to 'form' the gusset.

Others are lined with a light board or light texon type board, with either a fitted or loose fabric lining.

The triangles come from the way the pieces are pulled through the sewing machine, so if hand-stitching you may not have the same problem with unlined bags.

Away from my workshop for 6 months, else I could have provided photos

Harry

[cantsewstraight]

Thank you both.  These suggestions are helpful.  I intend to use a 4/5 ounce Chromexcel sourced from Maverick Leather.

[Tugadude]

35 minutes ago, hwinbermuda said:

Most bags with such gussets have some kind of forming or light stiffening inside the leather.

Many from the likes of Tusting in the UK have a fabric inside which helps to 'form' the gusset.

Others are lined with a light board or light texon type board, with either a fitted or loose fabric lining.

The triangles come from the way the pieces are pulled through the sewing machine, so if hand-stitching you may not have the same problem with unlined bags.

Away from my workshop for 6 months, else I could have provided photos

Harry

I think the triangles the OP is referring to are actually triangles that are creased into the leather on accordion briefcases, wallets, etc.  No stitching involved in the triangle.  The leather is wetted and a bone folder used to crease along predetermined lines.

I used 5-6 oz. buffalo culatta on a bag exactly like the one pictured and the leather had zero issues making the turn.  No wetting either.  I just worked fine.  There was no lining or stiffening used or required.

[Deryk]

did you skive the edges?

 

[Tugadude]

Borrowed from Andersen Leather where he details the construction of this beautiful bag.  It is an "Instructable" and you can google it to see the complete details.

 

Pics didn't load, so see post below.....

Edited May 24, 2018 by Tugadude

[Deryk]

I am familiar with the bag but the pic's can't be seen   http://andersenleather.blogspot.dk/2015/05/us-mail-bag.html

 

Edited May 24, 2018 by Deryk

[Tugadude]

[Tugadude]

5 minutes ago, Deryk said:

did you skive the edges?

 

I did not skive the edges.  You certainly could if you want to minimize the thickness of the visible join.  If I make another one, I might, but it doesn't help the bend.  In order to do that you'd have to skive all the way across the bend and like I said, I found that unnecessary.  I've completed two bags now with same construction and zero issues.