Hello and question about gusset

[cantsewstraight]

Greetings from, ordinarily, sunny Florida.  I've been working with leather for only a brief time -- made a few axe and knife sheathes, a small pouch, and a journal cover -- and would like to make a bag similar to the one featured in the picture. I can't seem to wrap my head around how the double gusset wraps around or is attached.  Will the leather just bend to conform or does it need to be cut?  I'd like to avoid the triangles often seen with an accordion gusset. Any help will be greatly appreciated.  I've looked for the answer elsewhere on the site but couldn't find one. If this has been answered, please direct me to that thread. Thanks,

Rob

[Deryk]

well it would depend on the leather that you are using.  I would choose something soft to medium stiffness so that it could bend around like that.  

 

Edited May 24, 2018 by Deryk

[bermudahwin]

Most bags with such gussets have some kind of forming or light stiffening inside the leather.

Many from the likes of Tusting in the UK have a fabric inside which helps to 'form' the gusset.

Others are lined with a light board or light texon type board, with either a fitted or loose fabric lining.

The triangles come from the way the pieces are pulled through the sewing machine, so if hand-stitching you may not have the same problem with unlined bags.

Away from my workshop for 6 months, else I could have provided photos

Harry

[cantsewstraight]

Thank you both.  These suggestions are helpful.  I intend to use a 4/5 ounce Chromexcel sourced from Maverick Leather.

[Tugadude]

35 minutes ago, hwinbermuda said:

Most bags with such gussets have some kind of forming or light stiffening inside the leather.

Many from the likes of Tusting in the UK have a fabric inside which helps to 'form' the gusset.

Others are lined with a light board or light texon type board, with either a fitted or loose fabric lining.

The triangles come from the way the pieces are pulled through the sewing machine, so if hand-stitching you may not have the same problem with unlined bags.

Away from my workshop for 6 months, else I could have provided photos

Harry

I think the triangles the OP is referring to are actually triangles that are creased into the leather on accordion briefcases, wallets, etc.  No stitching involved in the triangle.  The leather is wetted and a bone folder used to crease along predetermined lines.

I used 5-6 oz. buffalo culatta on a bag exactly like the one pictured and the leather had zero issues making the turn.  No wetting either.  I just worked fine.  There was no lining or stiffening used or required.

[Deryk]

did you skive the edges?

 

[Tugadude]

Borrowed from Andersen Leather where he details the construction of this beautiful bag.  It is an "Instructable" and you can google it to see the complete details.

 

Pics didn't load, so see post below.....

Edited May 24, 2018 by Tugadude

[Deryk]

I am familiar with the bag but the pic's can't be seen   http://andersenleather.blogspot.dk/2015/05/us-mail-bag.html

 

Edited May 24, 2018 by Deryk

[Tugadude]

[Tugadude]

5 minutes ago, Deryk said:

did you skive the edges?

 

I did not skive the edges.  You certainly could if you want to minimize the thickness of the visible join.  If I make another one, I might, but it doesn't help the bend.  In order to do that you'd have to skive all the way across the bend and like I said, I found that unnecessary.  I've completed two bags now with same construction and zero issues.

[Tugadude]

5 minutes ago, Deryk said:

I am familiar with the bag but the pic's can't be seen   http://andersenleather.blogspot.dk/2015/05/us-mail-bag.html

 

That link is actually to a "turned" bag where the seams are on the inside.  The pics I posted are from the accordion bag.  BTW, the turned bag turned out great and while I didn't use the piping or welts, I was very happy with the results.

[Deryk]

yeah your link didn't work ...I also made the same bag and didn't do the piping/welts either.  I like the look of inside out bags... need to try another one and line it.  I have been doing all my messenger bags US Mail style...I like how the bag stays nicely on my hip.  (this is my steampunk edc bag)

[cantsewstraight]

Tugadude, that is comforting as my card-stock model is not behaving well at all.  Thank you all for your help and suggestions.  Rob

[Tugadude]

That explains the concern.  Card stock is very stiff.  BTW, when cutting your gussets, leave extra length.  If you measure exactly it is almost sure to come out too short.  

The first one I did, I glued together and then punched holes and stitched.  The second go-round I pre-punched the gusset stitching holes and the panels and everything lined up great.I left 2" of extra length on the gussets, but so long as you start on one side and have the holes spaced equally from the top edge, it should line up no problem.  BTW, if you are wanting to practice on real leather but don't want to spend a fortune, check out Springfield Leather's website.  They frequently feature $25.00 sides.  Used to be $20.00 when I would walk in their store, but I guess everything goes up.  Anyway, they have limited colors as you can imagine, but it would be a great way to make a bag, have plenty of leather to work with and use it as practice.  If it turns out good and it is neon yellow, give it to a kid for school!

[cantsewstraight]

I think I have enough scrap laying around to make a prototype for, say, GI Joe.  I'll let you know how the real thing turns out.  Thanks again.

[bermudahwin]

23 hours ago, Tugadude said:

I think the triangles the OP is referring to are actually triangles that are creased into the leather on accordion briefcases, wallets, etc.  No stitching involved in the triangle.  The leather is wetted and a bone folder used to crease along predetermined lines.

I used 5-6 oz. buffalo culatta on a bag exactly like the one pictured and the leather had zero issues making the turn.  No wetting either.  I just worked fine.  There was no lining or stiffening used or required.

I do not crease the gusset, as I rarely want the concertina to be that tight.

[cantsewstraight]

So, the gusset will just follow the curve with a bit of coaxing? In terms of assembly order, I plan to sew the 2 gusset pieces together with the divider captured in the seam.  Would I then just sew that whole assembly to the back and then the front?  The Andersen Leather bag was constructed using a single piece of leather folded over to make the double gusset.  He then slid the divider in and sewed it up after the front and back were sewn onto the gusset.  Which way do you think works better?  I will be hand sewing this not using a machine.  Thanks, thanks, and thanks.  Rob

 

PS I visit a lot of forums of this type and this one is, by far, the friendliest and most responsive.  Thank you.

[Tugadude]

Scratching my head here to remember but I think I attached the front to the gusset first followed by the divider and second gusset and finally the back panel.  I didn't have to do much coaxing as I remember.  Not saying it was a walk in the park, but not a huge struggle either.  I used a combination of clips and needles to help keep things lined up as I remember