Hello and question about gusset

[Tugadude]

5 minutes ago, Deryk said:

I am familiar with the bag but the pic's can't be seen   http://andersenleather.blogspot.dk/2015/05/us-mail-bag.html

 

That link is actually to a "turned" bag where the seams are on the inside.  The pics I posted are from the accordion bag.  BTW, the turned bag turned out great and while I didn't use the piping or welts, I was very happy with the results.

[Deryk]

yeah your link didn't work ...I also made the same bag and didn't do the piping/welts either.  I like the look of inside out bags... need to try another one and line it.  I have been doing all my messenger bags US Mail style...I like how the bag stays nicely on my hip.  (this is my steampunk edc bag)

[cantsewstraight]

Tugadude, that is comforting as my card-stock model is not behaving well at all.  Thank you all for your help and suggestions.  Rob

[Tugadude]

That explains the concern.  Card stock is very stiff.  BTW, when cutting your gussets, leave extra length.  If you measure exactly it is almost sure to come out too short.  

The first one I did, I glued together and then punched holes and stitched.  The second go-round I pre-punched the gusset stitching holes and the panels and everything lined up great.I left 2" of extra length on the gussets, but so long as you start on one side and have the holes spaced equally from the top edge, it should line up no problem.  BTW, if you are wanting to practice on real leather but don't want to spend a fortune, check out Springfield Leather's website.  They frequently feature $25.00 sides.  Used to be $20.00 when I would walk in their store, but I guess everything goes up.  Anyway, they have limited colors as you can imagine, but it would be a great way to make a bag, have plenty of leather to work with and use it as practice.  If it turns out good and it is neon yellow, give it to a kid for school!

[cantsewstraight]

I think I have enough scrap laying around to make a prototype for, say, GI Joe.  I'll let you know how the real thing turns out.  Thanks again.

[bermudahwin]

23 hours ago, Tugadude said:

I think the triangles the OP is referring to are actually triangles that are creased into the leather on accordion briefcases, wallets, etc.  No stitching involved in the triangle.  The leather is wetted and a bone folder used to crease along predetermined lines.

I used 5-6 oz. buffalo culatta on a bag exactly like the one pictured and the leather had zero issues making the turn.  No wetting either.  I just worked fine.  There was no lining or stiffening used or required.

I do not crease the gusset, as I rarely want the concertina to be that tight.

[cantsewstraight]

So, the gusset will just follow the curve with a bit of coaxing? In terms of assembly order, I plan to sew the 2 gusset pieces together with the divider captured in the seam.  Would I then just sew that whole assembly to the back and then the front?  The Andersen Leather bag was constructed using a single piece of leather folded over to make the double gusset.  He then slid the divider in and sewed it up after the front and back were sewn onto the gusset.  Which way do you think works better?  I will be hand sewing this not using a machine.  Thanks, thanks, and thanks.  Rob

 

PS I visit a lot of forums of this type and this one is, by far, the friendliest and most responsive.  Thank you.

[Tugadude]

Scratching my head here to remember but I think I attached the front to the gusset first followed by the divider and second gusset and finally the back panel.  I didn't have to do much coaxing as I remember.  Not saying it was a walk in the park, but not a huge struggle either.  I used a combination of clips and needles to help keep things lined up as I remember