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Posted
4 hours ago, LetterT said:

So plastic wood and acrylic paint would be an viable alternative to edge cote/paint.

Makes me wonder what is edge coat made of.

Edgekote is basically the same formulation as Acrylic paint but thicker, less water or more pigment. 

The plastic wood is just for filling separation cracks where the glue or tape has failed. 

 

16 oz bottle is $4.99. 4 oz. of Edgekote is $8.99.

Lamp (Ebony) Black 2 ounces Americana Acrylic Paint | Hobby Lobby | 56382

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/Black-Anita's-Acrylic-Craft-Paint---16-Ounces/p/80753748

Bob

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Posted
8 hours ago, BDAZ said:

Edgekote is basically the same formulation as Acrylic paint but thicker, less water or more pigment. 

The plastic wood is just for filling separation cracks where the glue or tape has failed. 

 

16 oz bottle is $4.99. 4 oz. of Edgekote is $8.99.

Lamp (Ebony) Black 2 ounces Americana Acrylic Paint | Hobby Lobby | 56382

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/Black-Anita's-Acrylic-Craft-Paint---16-Ounces/p/80753748

Bob

I have some acrylic paints I bought from Walmart and they were on sale for $1.99 each.  Might want to try one.  I don’t use them for edge painting, just other decorations and I dilute black paint with water and use to color carving backgrounds.

Gary

Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4

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Posted
2 hours ago, garypl said:

I have some acrylic paints I bought from Walmart and they were on sale for $1.99 each.  Might want to try one.  I don’t use them for edge painting, just other decorations and I dilute black paint with water and use to color carving backgrounds.

Gary

I assume that if you can dilute the black, you may be able to evaporate some water and thicken the paint a bit as well, though I see little difference in viscosity between the Edgekote and paint when applied to the edge with a tool.

Bob

Posted
1 hour ago, BDAZ said:

I assume that if you can dilute the black, you may be able to evaporate some water and thicken the paint a bit as well, though I see little difference in viscosity between the Edgekote and paint when applied to the edge with a tool.

Bob

Totally agree Bob.  I dilute the paint so I can apply it with a fine tipped squeeze bottle - works well to outline or fill-in letters and for backgrounding.  Undiluted it is too thick to go through the fine needle.

Gary

Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4

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Posted

I use undiluted acrylic to highlight stamps and letters.

Banjo-Strap-Old-Time1.thumb.jpg.ea100b6424f77d2f78146a7d8a9aebde.jpg

This is a quickie strap I made from scraps for a new banjo I acquired a few years ago. The acrylic still looks freshly painted.

Bob

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Posted

We use something similar to PVA glue that's more flexible and has a high gloss. Several applications of a medium thin solution allowed to dry completely then sanded with 150 will fill the loose fibers marvelously. You can then do whatever other edge treatment you want. Sand with 100 grit to rough the surface up for acrylic edge paint, but you won't need to do lots of applications to build nice smooth layers because it doesn't need to penetrate and will adhere evenly and smoothly. PVA burnishes like a dream. You're essentially impregnating the edge with flexible plastic which you can then polish however you wish just like any other plastic. Just use progressively higher grits and burnish as usual with canvas and a thin solution, then let it dry and hit it with a felt wheel loaded with carnauba wax for a nice shine.

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Posted

Is that a commercial product or do you make it?

Bob

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Another experiment, I punched a hole at the edge of an old credit card producing a semicircle the diameter of the width of the leather. I applied a bead of caulk to the edge of the leather and "squeegeed" the bead forming a perfect semicircular bead the exact width of the edge. It dried perfectly. I am going to obtain some black caulk which could be an alternative to edging, burnishing and painting. The white looks perfect!

It would be easy to make a jig that would be a slot with a rounded top the exact width of the project, and one would simply draw the leather through and form a perfect bead on the edge in one step.

Bob

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Posted
19 hours ago, BDAZ said:

Is that a commercial product or do you make it?

Bob

As I said, PVA is a great filler and on its own burnishes beautifully. It's durable and remains flexible enough for our purposes. However, it remains porous to water and could always stand to be mechanically stronger.

I make my solution based on protocols from academic articles from polymer and materials science journals. I'd rather not completely give away the secret sauce, but with these search terms you'll easily be able to figure out what I'm doing with cheap and readily available ingredients: crosslink PVA glutaraldehyde.

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Posted

I would think that using tape instead of contact cement is your main problem.  Why not use glue?  Or am I missing something?

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