Propper saddle stitch attempts

[deloid]

I've been trying to get a nice pattern with Ritza .6mm thread, K&S blade 3.85, awl and kangaroo. The front isn't a problem and the last wallet I completed looked good front and backside. The problem is that I need to sew in different directions and that throws the pattern on the backside. On the bad side I tried starting from the back, from the front, loop below the single thread and loop above. Three and four from the left (back) looked better but the next was straight.

 

I'd really appreciate a methodology or thinking process when stitching in the direction as per the pictures. Last picture was supposed to state Front with the back looking like a running stitch.

Edited June 29, 2018 by deloid

[deloid]

"Proper"

[KingsCountyLeather]

Have you looked at Nigel Armitage’s videos? For the price if a coffee per month? He goes into detail on every aspect of the saddle stitch.  When you’re struggling with the finer detail of leather work I think it’s worth spending a little to get it right. For me... I’ve spent a small fortune setting up my hobby so I thought why not spend a little on learning as well.

[zuludog]

I went to a demonstration & talk by Nigel Armitage last year and on his recommendation I have done two things which have improved my stitching - 

I no longer use a stitching groover, I simply mark the line of the stitching with dividers

I changed from Tandy 'big eye'  needles to John James size 2; but make sure they are British size 2

I think both Nigel Armitage and Leodis Leather/Ian Atkinson have some subscription free videos about saddle stitch on YouTube which are subscription free

[Joon1911]

This video has been by far, the best, video to help me understand what I was doing wrong with my saddle stitch.  I’m still not perfect because I don’t do it very often, but if I review this video, I can always figure out what I’ve done wrong to create an inconsistency.  

 

[Tugadude]

5 hours ago, zuludog said:

I went to a demonstration & talk by Nigel Armitage last year and on his recommendation I have done two things which have improved my stitching - 

I no longer use a stitching groover, I simply mark the line of the stitching with dividers

I changed from Tandy 'big eye'  needles to John James size 2; but make sure they are British size 2

I think both Nigel Armitage and Leodis Leather/Ian Atkinson have some subscription free videos about saddle stitch on YouTube which are subscription free

Yes, both have generously put up free videos on youtube and I highly recommend them.  Hope I can get over to your side of the pond someday.  I envy the fact you got to see Nigel's presentation in person.  He has helped countless people in their development, most of whom he'll never know.

[zuludog]

I've just found this video on YT which covers most aspects of the saddle stitch

'Hand Stitching Leather' by Ian Atkinson. He also clarifies the position on JJ # 2 needles

[deloid]

Thanks everyone. I think I figured it out. I wasn't casting the back side properly. I watched both of the wonderful videos (Nigel/Ian's) and I agree, they are remarkable in their generosity.

I discovered a new stumbling block now that I'm trying to improve on the quality of my stitching. Using the Roo, .6 thread, JJ #2 9no groove) I was doing well. I use double sided tape from Tandy for many of my projects.When freshly taped and marked with the pricking iron the leather works easily and the needles and awl stay clean. As I worked on the last section many hours later the awl and needle started getting gummed up and while the front stitch was fine, the back now didn't cast cleanly. I think the gummed up hole couldn't be cleanly opened with the awl so  the backside didn't open enough for that nice slant. I have to compare the white leather glue and contact cement to see which dries better. Perhaps someone is already aware of this issue and has a recommendation.

[zuludog]

I must admit that I hadn't heard of using double sided tape to fix pieces of leather together before sewing, till now. Any adhesive is simply to hold the leather together in the correct position while you sew it

For sewing sheaths I use the minimum smear of contact glue then clamp it together and let it dry for at least an hour. Pad the clamps with scrap leather or you may mark your workpiece

Even if your thread is ready waxed it would do no harm to give it an extra waxing yourself

[Tugadude]

I use the Tandy double-sided tape and have experienced a little gumminess, but it didn't affect the look of the stitch.  I don't think time has much to do with it but I could be wrong.  Tandy has two types of adhesive tape if I remember.  One is more aggressive than the other.  Don't remember which I use.

[Tugadude]

Tandy website shows one type, Tanner's Bond.