Rockoboy Posted August 16, 2018 Report Posted August 16, 2018 I was given a recipe by a mate. I am sure he will not mind me sharing it. Equal quantities of beeswax and lanolin, a splash of pure gum turpentine. melt and combine together. Let it set, it comes out a bit greasy, but not too much, has a pleasant smell (to me anyway) because of the PGT. Quote Kindest regards Brian "Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right" Henry Ford Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy, Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)
garypl Posted August 17, 2018 Report Posted August 17, 2018 I use a mixture of beeswax, carnuba wax, lanolin, NFO, and Lexol. I melt it all together in a double boiler and add more beeswax if too soft and more NFO if too hard. Estimate 50% beeswax, 15% each carnuba and lanolin, 15% NFO and 5% Lexol. Makes a semi soft paste that works well to make leather more water resistant and also softens dry or hard leather. Will NOT do a good job sealing dyed leather. Gary Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
Members ScoobyNewbie Posted August 17, 2018 Members Report Posted August 17, 2018 I wonder now if you couldn’t use neutragena soap. I inherited a HUGE bottle and the Tandy saddle soap says it’s glycerine. That’s what neutragena is. Quote
Members porcupine Posted August 17, 2018 Members Report Posted August 17, 2018 (edited) If you want the emollient properties of Glycerin, without the detergent/soap, Vegetable Glycerin is available at grocery/pharmacy/Walmart. Also Amazon, etc. Are there other benefits to 'saddle soap' formulations? (I'm not a horse guy, so I haven't a clue). Edited August 17, 2018 by porcupine Quote
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