GeneH Report post Posted December 1, 2018 (edited) Am I going about this all wrong? Here are a couple pictures of the cardboard mockup. I planned on 8 oz leather. The brown cardboard hatchet hoop is about 1 1/2 inches diameter, 2 layers thick. This way I get rigidity and inside finished smooth leather. The belt loop is the grid paper, one thickness 8 oz. One of our members here, Skogsvana does this, so for my own personal use I want to make one. Prob 1: How do I stitch the 2 layers together, around the top and bottom circumference? I'm assuming I have to stitch after they are formed into the cylinder because the inside piece is shorter than the outside piece. (see below) The needles are longer than the inside diameter. Do I angle the awl up when pushing from the outside, so that the needle just clears the top of the opposite side of the cylinder as it goes through? Prob 2: When securing the belt loop to the hatchet hoop / cylinder, I will rivet through 4 layers of 8 oz. How am I going to get inside the hoop? Use a anvil or something? I expected to use 4 sold brass rivets, not the hollow or double cap rivets. But then I have no clue of how much rivet I strength I need, and no idea where to get small head rivets with such long shafts. Cut length to form the cylinder, inner is about 3/4 inch shorter than the outer piece. Inner piece is 1.5 ID = 4.71 circumference Outer piece is 1.75 ID (1.75+.125x2) = 5.5 circumference. Edited December 1, 2018 by GeneH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted December 1, 2018 1 hour ago, GeneH said: Do I angle the awl up when pushing from the outside, so that the needle just clears the top of the opposite side of the cylinder as it goes through? Use a curved needle. Keep your awl perpendicular to the leather surface. 1 hour ago, GeneH said: How am I going to get inside the hoop? Use a anvil or something? Use a piece of pipe or bar stock clamped in a vice for your anvil, or use an anvil with a horn that is forged as part of the anvil. I see from your IP address that you are in Excelsior, Minnesota, 55331 so should have access to a Tandy store (or others you can visit or web order from. Tandy has brass rivets with burs, #12 x 3/4" long. You might like to add your location to your profile so people know what part of the world you live in and can give you meaningful help for your part of the globe. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rockoboy Report post Posted December 1, 2018 I would cut the inner layer to length, but leave the outer hoop slightly oversize. Use a narrow band of contact adhesive along the top and bottom of the inner and outer hoops. Bend the inner layer around a form of the finished size, so the ends just come together. Then apply the outer layer and cut it exactly to length. This will give you a C shape cuff with an opening. Stitch the 2 straight sides on the opening, then stitch around the top and bottom of the hatchet hoop with the curved needles as recommended by @Northmount. If you can't get the rivets the way you want them with an anvil, you could stitch the belt loop on. Long nose pliers are invaluable for getting your curved needles into the tight spaces. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeneH Report post Posted December 2, 2018 5 hours ago, Northmount said: You might like to add your location to your profile so people know what part of the world you live in and can give you meaningful help for your part of the globe. Tom Corrected that omission. :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeneH Report post Posted December 2, 2018 Ha! I double checked a vice that I have yet to mount and it has an anvil end that should work. I just might have some curved needles also. I wish I would have thought of this sooner because just received straight needles and an awl from Rocky Mountain Leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites