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Posted

Morning folks, I have a question regarding finishing alum tawed leather. Up until now I have worked solely with veg tan and a little bit chrome lamb nappa.

I have received a sample from a tannery of some very nice soft pure white goat skin which I would love to use and have a couple of ideas in mind for, however it's alum tawed.

From what I have researched I know that water can have a big impact on it, potentially even sweat, by washing out the alum salts. Although what I'm thinking of should never normally get wet it may come in contact with sweat, possibly a lot depending on various factors.

My current finishes and conditioners are based round my veg tan work and I can't find much information on how to finish and condition alum. Most information on the web is about conservation of an old article for preservation rather than for use.

What can I use to give it a bit more resistance to water/sweat which will give (hopefully) no change to the whiteness but if that's not realistic then minimal change.

 

Thanks very much

Stuart

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Posted

I learned something new this morning: 

tr.v. tawed, taw·ing, taws. To convert (an animal hide) into white leather by treating it with a mixture containing alum and salt. [Middle English tawen, from Old English tawian, to prepare.] taw′er n.
 
Since I didn't know this type of leather even existed until just now, I have no help to offer. Just putting this up here for others who are wondering what the heck 'alum tawed' leather is!
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Posted
54 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

I learned something new this morning: 

tr.v. tawed, taw·ing, taws. To convert (an animal hide) into white leather by treating it with a mixture containing alum and salt. [Middle English tawen, from Old English tawian, to prepare.] taw′er n.
 
Since I didn't know this type of leather even existed until just now, I have no help to offer. Just putting this up here for others who are wondering what the heck 'alum tawed' leather is!

Good thinking, thanks!

Posted

Have you got some offcuts or excess hide you can do some tests with some different finishes? If you do, I would maybe start with what you already have, in the way of finishes, and see what works, partially works or fails completely.

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

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Posted

Sno-seal or homemade dubbin and a hair dryer is where I'd go first but only out of near complete ignorance.

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