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Posted

I recently made a knife sheath and added rivets for decoration.  The knife fit the sheath without the rivets but once that was added (even though it only went through the welt) it tightened it up.  Should I be allowing extra material for the rivets?  If so, how much?

Posted

Can you make the sheath a little flexible and allow it to stretch by rubbing in some Dubbin or beeswax or neatsfoot oil or something similar? 

Somebody who actually knows what they are talking about will possibly be along soon. 

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

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Posted (edited)

Take the knife, . . . add two layers of masking tape to each side, . . . put a little beeswax or parrafin on it, . . . slip it into the sheath and let it stay for 24 hours.

Take it out, . . . peel off the masking tape, . . . try the knife again.

By then, it should fit rather nicely.

I do that same process to tight holsters, . . . but I use a plastic freezer bag.  

I also NEVER put rivets in a knife sheath along the blade.  I know it is not probable, . . . but if you ever make the mistake of swinging the knife down into a piece of wood or something, . . . and the knife is still in the sheath, . . . where the rivets are, . . . you will have a serious gouge in your knife blade.  

Ellsworth Lynn Beach, my 8th grade scoutmaster, taught me that back in 1957, . . . never forgot it.  Same goes for hatchet and ax sheaths, . . . round knife holders, . . . anything with a good  edge on it.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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