Phaff 145 presser foot to high

[DFH]

I have a 145 that has always made more noise than I thought it should . Having just found this site and a video that Uwe posted about adjusting the walking foot the noise is gone . But now I have a new problem when the presser feet are up using the lever the needle bar now hits the foot . My machine is set up for the 190 needle . 

[DFH]

I tried to edit/add to my post but could not figure out how . So my question is is there any way to adjust both feet down so when lifted up they will not be so high as to come in contact with the needle bar ? Thanks in Advance  

[dikman]

Which model do you have? From what I could find out the H4 is designed for the 190 needle, all others require a 134/135 needle.

[DFH]

Yes that is what i understand . And i am using 190 .  My machine is 145 H4  6-1  CLMN  P

[Wizcrafts]

46 minutes ago, DFH said:

Yes that is what i understand . And i am using 190 .  My machine is 145 H4  6-1  CLMN  P

If the bottom of the needle bar hits the top of the feet, you can either raise the needle bar a smidgen, tweaking the hook timing to match, or lower the presser foot position to avoid impact. There will be one set of co-adjustments that will yield the maximum foot lift without hitting the needle bar, along with effective hook timing in forward and reverse at all factory standard stitch lengths. The higher the lift and longer the stitches, the more critical all adjustments become.

[DFH]

If you saw the condition of some of the screws on this machine it looks like it has been worked on by far from the best .                 I would love to find a manual that would allow me to start at the beginning checking things in order .  

[dikman]

I would say that the condition of the screws sounds par for the course for old machines! All of mine have screws with varying degrees of butchery, plus some screws that obviously aren't original!!

If it's only an issue when the feet are lifted manually by the lever then it can't be too far off, so as Wiz says raise the needle bar slightly and reset the hook-needle timing.

I found this, if it's any help.

pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF

[DFH]

The comment that Wizcraft made make a lot of sense . I found on youtube a video of a guy timing a different machine but I think it will work on the 145 if I had the the right info .The stitch length needs to be set to some predetermined number then the needle bar bar is to brought down to bottom dead center then brought back up in his machine it was 1.8 mm .      So I may be getting closer to understand the procedure I just need the specification for my hook timing     

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, DFH said:

The comment that Wizcraft made make a lot of sense . I found on youtube a video of a guy timing a different machine but I think it will work on the 145 if I had the the right info .The stitch length needs to be set to some predetermined number then the needle bar bar is to brought down to bottom dead center then brought back up in his machine it was 1.8 mm .      So I may be getting closer to understand the procedure I just need the specification for my hook timing     

Unless you have the adjuster's manual, or have somebody else who knows what they are doing, I would lower the presser bar to avoid contact with the needle bar. The only effect this will have is to reduce the clearance under the feet by about 1/16 of an inch, or less. Lowering the needle bar may throw off the hook timing, leading you down a slippery slope that will result in more headaches than you have now. Later on, you may learn how to check the needle to hook timing and the proper way to adjust it. Then you can raise the foot to regain any lost clearance.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[dikman]

Wiz made a good point, my bad, if you're not familiar with adjusting machines forget what I suggested. I think that manual I posted explains how to adjust the feet without touching anything else.

[DFH]

I moved the needle bar and it does not hit the foot any more and sews fine .  But after sewing for a few min. the front foot has slipped again and is contacting ahead of the needle again . The only thing I can figure because the screws are so bad I am not getting them tight enough .I am thinking of silver soldering pieces on top of them for a allen wrench   

[dikman]

Got any photos? I doubt if silver soldering would be strong enough to withstand tightening up with an allen key, but if that's all you've got available I suppose it's worth a try.

[DFH]

No more banging or knocking .Replaced all the bad screws it sure looks better . Took it to a retired mechanic he had the screws and the skill it was a great afternoon working on in his shop on this rainy day .

[dikman]

You did very well finding someone who had all the correct screws for a machine like that!

[DFH]

Yes he had small bottles of all kind of screws . The only thing left i need to do is replace the feed dog it is showing a lot of ware . I will call Henderson after the New Year .

I will pass this on the most frustrating noise turned out to be a very simple fix .   The shaft under the bed that goes from one end of the machine to the other that operates the feed dog was lose on the hand wheel end of the machine .     If it was the engine in a car it sounded like a bad rod bearing .       As it turns out that shaft is supported on each end with a tapered pin / shaft    

All i had to do is loosen one set screw tap the shaft in to take up the ware .     The long shat has female taper on each end and the pins are male .