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TerryJ

Question about holster making

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Ok, I’m planning on getting a machine in the near future, and have a few questions about sewing up holsters. Maybe the Cowboy Outlaw or the 3200/3500. Leaning towards the Outlaw though now because of heavier thread size capabilities .

Right now, the way I make them is to wet mold them, glue along the general lines of the gun, THEN  hand sew along the general lines of the gun.

Ive never sewed before, so have no experience.Will this method of having the molded shape make it hard to get right next to the guns lines that are molded into shape? I’ll be limited by the walking foot as far as how close I can get to the shape, right? It’s not like I could lift the walking feet high enough to clear, say, the trigger guard if I needed to get even closer than normal then drop it back down, right? ( don’t know if I explained that right, but it’s something I was wondering about)  

Or do the majority of people lay out the stitch lines first, sew, THEN mold it?

sorry for the noob questions, but I figured I’m not the first one to ask them!

Thanks...

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I think they sew first. 

The outlaw and the 3500 have the same thread capacity and lift I believe.?

The 3200 tops out at a half inch and 346 thread?

I'm no expert just trying to point you in the right direction.

Edited by bikermutt07

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From reading and research on here I think most that mold first hand sew.  If you are making holsters I would really look to the powered machines.  I started with a Tippman Boss and yes I made some decent holsters and one belt, but since I moved up to a CB 4500 and have both hands to control the object being sewn I have been able to tackle some projects that I never would have with the Boss.

Todd

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I have a Cobra Class 4, With the holster plate or the stirrup plate installed you can sew very close.  Some designs are easy to sew after molding and some need to be molded after. I prefer to mold after sewing because It is easy to scuff and mark the leather on the machine parts with a pre molded holster.

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