Used straight or round knife on a budget - brands?

[bikermutt07]

That's it, I'm gonna have to buy me a few more leather knives.

I will do some review when the slow boat from China arrives.

[bikermutt07]

Well, Wuta offers this one in a Lefty model. I have one on the way.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153396227566

[bikermutt07]

On 3/13/2019 at 3:26 PM, GeneH said:

These just popped up for me. Stated as DC53 steel, and according to a quick google education, superior to D2, (tougher, more chip resistant at higher hardness)....soooo... if the HT is good then I should be more than satisfied. For a while. At the price I can't justify the T&M to make one. BONUS if it's really good then we might be looking for belt knives. heh.

I wonder if there is any real difference between left and right orientation when using the knife, 'cause I'm a leftie. No matter, we'll see what happens. If it wasn't for the videos I would have been using it backwards anyway.

 

I messaged Kevin on this exact posting and he said he had them available in left hand models. 

So, now I have one of those coming too.

[Husky3]

Does a round knife work when using an acrylic template to cut against?  I am using an 11 surgical blade and they dull pretty quickly (i have an endless supply...) but get the job done when i am not at the right angle and just barely touch the template

[GeneH]

I doubt I would have the muscle control pushing a knife (round or head knife) around a tight curve template since I've used pulling strokes all my life when cutting shapes.

Part of your question hints at the knife's ability to hold an edge. Are you asking about a round/head knife for it's utility for leather work because of its shape?  That was part of my questions also when deciding on a new knife.

Either way you need a knife with hard steel, thin behind the edge, but not too hard or thin that it chips or snaps off a millimeter of the pointy tip. (...and I have no idea what hardness or steel to suggest for leather... but hope to get a little education when my knife arrives. I want buttery smooth slicing, and no chipping if I use it on a poly cutting board)

 

Edited March 17, 2019 by GeneH

[bikermutt07]

30 minutes ago, GeneH said:

I doubt I would have the muscle control pushing a knife (round or head knife) around a tight curve template since I've used pulling strokes all my life when cutting shapes.

Part of your question hints at the knife's ability to hold an edge. Are you asking about a round/head knife for it's utility for leather work because of its shape?  That was part of my questions also when deciding on a new knife.

Either way you need a knife with hard steel, thin behind the edge, but not too hard or thin that it chips or snaps off a millimeter of the pointy tip. (...and I have no idea what hardness or steel to suggest for leather... but hope to get a little education when my knife arrives. I want buttery smooth slicing, and no chipping if I use it on a poly cutting board)

 

It takes a little practice to do the push cuts. But, it is not difficult to learn. 

2 hours ago, Husky3 said:

Does a round knife work when using an acrylic template to cut against?  I am using an 11 surgical blade and they dull pretty quickly (i have an endless supply...) but get the job done when i am not at the right angle and just barely touch the template

Yes I have used mine many times around a template.

If you strop those surgical blades you will find them much easier to use.

[lonesome dove]

I can recommend this eBay seller. I bought one his "vintage" leather knives similar to the one in this listing and about the same price. Sharpest blade I have ever used and at least as sharp as the Lisa Sorrell skiving knives; which were excellent right out of the box.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Vintage-Japanese-Skiving-knife-Leather-craft-37-180mm-Saburo/202620461502?hash=item2f2d1ee1be:g:OXEAAOSwfvlbvVAP&frcectupt=true

Edited March 17, 2019 by lonesome dove

[zuludog]

HUSKY 3 -------  Any knife used against a template is liable to become blunted. The procedure you should use is - 

Use a round or scratch awl (hence the name) against the template to mark out the pattern on the leather. Do this quite firmly to produce a definite scratch or groove. Then remove the template and cut the pattern freehand. A deep scratch will make it easier to see the pattern, and will also act as a guide for the blade

Depending on the thickness of the leather, start with light cuts to establish the line of the cut, then use that line for stronger & deeper cuts. As you gain experience and strength in your hands & wrists you can do fewer light cuts and go to deeper cuts more quickly - that's the theory anyway

the disposable blades used in craft knives & scalpels can be improved bu a fine stone & stropping

[GeneH]

Zuludog: I though making multiple passes to get through leather or anything else was just a bad habit of mine developed from either poor tools and skill. 

Thanks for validating that I'm not as skill-less and wimpy as I thought.   :-) 

[zuludog]

8 hours ago, GeneH said:

Zuludog: I though making multiple passes to get through leather or anything else was just a bad habit of mine developed from either poor tools and skill. 

Thanks for validating that I'm not as skill-less and wimpy as I thought.   :-) 

A single cut is the best way, and experts & purists will tell us it is the only way, but it is difficult to maintain the hard pressure needed to cut thick leather whilst at the same time following the line of the pattern. For most mortals a few passes are needed, depending on the thickness of the leather. The downside is that you must be careful to follow exactly in the same line, or you will produce a stepped effect on the cut edge

As I said, as you gain experience, both with cutting the leather and sharpening your tools, so you can manage with fewer cuts

I can usually manage up to about 2 to 2,5mm leather with one cut, but for 3 or 4mm I often need a second or third pass, especially on curves.

The advantage that I, and I think most members of this forum have, is that we do this for a hobby, and we can evolve our own methods, without a college lecturer or a workshop foreman to tell us off.