Gay Crocker Report post Posted August 21, 2007 I am new to this and I need a draw down stand to start my first saddle. Does anyone have one for sale? If not, can you tell me where to get the part where the arm hooks in to hold it down? I havent seen anything like it at the hardware store. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg gomersall Report post Posted August 21, 2007 Get yourself a piece of 1/8 or 3/16 flat iron the size you need and using a side grinder and saftey goggles you can make the piece. the catch to fit into these can be shaped on an anvil real easy. Greg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted August 21, 2007 Gay, The metal combs like Greg is describing are pretty easy to adjust, you can just step on the bar and kick it over into wherever you want. Most any welding shop should be able to make one up for you if you don't have the tools. I made mine a little different on the wooden stands. I have attached some pics. The bar hinges off the back. I drilled a series of holes in the front. I put a gatepost bolt or piece of rod through the holes over top of the bar, and then stick a wedge in over the bar/under the rod to provide tension. The further you pound it in, the tighter the tension. Not as quick to adjust, but these parts are all available at the hardware store or lumberyard. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gay Crocker Report post Posted August 21, 2007 Gay, The metal combs like Greg is describing are pretty easy to adjust, you can just step on the bar and kick it over into wherever you want. Most any welding shop should be able to make one up for you if you don't have the tools. I made mine a little different on the wooden stands. I have attached some pics. The bar hinges off the back. I drilled a series of holes in the front. I put a gatepost bolt or piece of rod through the holes over top of the bar, and then stick a wedge in over the bar/under the rod to provide tension. The further you pound it in, the tighter the tension. Not as quick to adjust, but these parts are all available at the hardware store or lumberyard. That one looks like something I can do! Any idea of how tall to make it? I'd hate to build it and find out its too uncomfortable to use! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barra Report post Posted August 21, 2007 I made mine taller than I think most have. I made it high enough so that i can do all work standing upright so that I don't have to bend over and stoop. The highest point is about navel height Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted August 21, 2007 Gay, The pictured stand is 46" high I think. I originally made one out of a saddle rack that was 39" high. Between the two, I was able to do what I needed without excess bending. It was nice having the height differences. The issue was that I had two drawdowns, they took up twice as much room, I was always moving from one stand to the other to do what I needed more comfortably, and it there was always a saddle on the other stand. This spring I got a hydraulic stand and would not go back. I sold the lower wooden one, and kept the tall one to set stirrup leathers on repair saddles, or other minor things if the hydraulic was being used. It is still out in the shed I stuck it in. Makes a dandy rack for saddle blankets and pads at the moment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gay Crocker Report post Posted August 22, 2007 Gay, The pictured stand is 46" high I think. I originally made one out of a saddle rack that was 39" high. Between the two, I was able to do what I needed without excess bending. It was nice having the height differences. The issue was that I had two drawdowns, they took up twice as much room, I was always moving from one stand to the other to do what I needed more comfortably, and it there was always a saddle on the other stand. This spring I got a hydraulic stand and would not go back. I sold the lower wooden one, and kept the tall one to set stirrup leathers on repair saddles, or other minor things if the hydraulic was being used. It is still out in the shed I stuck it in. Makes a dandy rack for saddle blankets and pads at the moment. I looked at those hydraulic stands online and they look great! I can see how having an adjustable height is advantageous. I just cant justify spending that much money without knowing if I am capable of actually building a saddle. I did find a hydraulic chair base on ebay for 20 bucks. I think I'm going to try and make my own stand with that. Do you use the tilt feature very much? Would you go to the trouble to try to add that or just go with a plain stand? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted August 22, 2007 Gay, My stand from Ron's Tools has an arm that raises up to tip the tree at different angles. The actual top doesn't swivel like the Weaver model. The Weaver pivots in two directions. The arm is an OK feature, but not an absolute requirement. There is not a wooden stand that raises up and pivots without raising the base. Millions of saddles have been built on them. If I needed to tilt the wooden stand, I put a something under the front or back. The biggest reason I had two drawdowns of different heights was to make the different things easier. The lower stand was good for shaping ground seats and doing fork covers and cantles. The tall one was good for sewing horns and cantles, installing strings/conchos, stuff I would have been bent over in one postion for a time on the lower one. One thing I would do if I was making my own. Make a contoured top to set the tree in. A rocking tree is exasperating. The shape will hold better. The Weaver has a flat plank with some kind of rupperized cover. Trees rock, and slip occasionally. One of my friends says always at the worst time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gay Crocker Report post Posted August 23, 2007 Gay, My stand from Ron's Tools has an arm that raises up to tip the tree at different angles. The actual top doesn't swivel like the Weaver model. The Weaver pivots in two directions. The arm is an OK feature, but not an absolute requirement. There is not a wooden stand that raises up and pivots without raising the base. Millions of saddles have been built on them. If I needed to tilt the wooden stand, I put a something under the front or back. The biggest reason I had two drawdowns of different heights was to make the different things easier. The lower stand was good for shaping ground seats and doing fork covers and cantles. The tall one was good for sewing horns and cantles, installing strings/conchos, stuff I would have been bent over in one postion for a time on the lower one. One thing I would do if I was making my own. Make a contoured top to set the tree in. A rocking tree is exasperating. The shape will hold better. The Weaver has a flat plank with some kind of rupperized cover. Trees rock, and slip occasionally. One of my friends says always at the worst time. I think I can do the tilting stand thing. I bought the hydraulic stand for 20 bucks, and found a pivoting, tilting table that I can canabalize to get the joints to build the articulating part of the stand. I should adjust up to 20+ inches, rotate, and tilt. I just got the first saddle tree I want to work on today so I hope they send the parts for the stand quickly! I am starting with a mexican saddle tree. I ordered it from mexico with mule bars. It seems to fit my mule pretty good. I just cant wait to get started! Course its nothing like the video I bought on saddle construction so I am going to be flying blind! Wish me luck and thanks again for all of your advise. I will post pics of the stand when I get it built. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayB Report post Posted August 24, 2007 I just got the first saddle tree I want to work on today so I hope they send the parts for the stand quickly! I am starting with a mexican saddle tree. I ordered it from mexico with mule bars. It seems to fit my mule pretty good. I just cant wait to get started! Course its nothing like the video I bought on saddle construction so I am going to be flying blind! Wish me luck and thanks again for all of your advise. I will post pics of the stand when I get it built. A couple years ago at the IFOLG show in Denver, Charley Crow showed a mexican style saddle that he had made. Here is a picture of it. Charley is a really nice guy and I bet he would be willing to answer any questions you had if he could. I would just have to try and find his email address somewhere. I guess if I do, I should invite him here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don101 Report post Posted September 24, 2007 this is what i built its not the best but works just fine and cost next to nothing as it was built from scrap timber i had laying around, as Bruce mentioned about working on the ground seat i thought up a strap like on a center fire saddle, and when working on the fork or cantle i just change the strap you can see hanging at the rear underneath Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Craw Report post Posted September 25, 2007 Man, every time I log on I see another idea I can steal...I mean - incorporate! Great idea Don! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waddy Report post Posted September 26, 2007 One more quick idea on a simple remedy for the ratchet catch. Just go down to the hardware store and look in the section where they sell the replacement saw blades for the "Sawzall" type products, and there you will find a ready made ratchet. Just drill a couple holes and attatch to your frame with some good screws. Cheap, quick, and works fine! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elton Joorisity Report post Posted September 26, 2007 The ratchet bar on my draw down is the bar from a ratchet type fence stretcher. If you cut them in half you have enough for two draw downs. Didn't cost me a penny Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hidemechanic Report post Posted November 11, 2007 My old draw down is strating to split and I got tiered of jumping up and down on the bar to get a tight fit, so I found a sissor jack out back and use it now. I may switch to a small bottle jack one of these days. Small mods and I'm on my way. Just hope the O/L doesn't get a flat first. HA!! G.Hackett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
