Advice needed

[KennethM]

Hey everyone.I was working on a commissioned bifold wallet.

 

Wallet backnis 3oz veg tan..Interiors are 2oz calf skin

 

Machine techsee1460..new size 20 leather needle with #92 thread..the first side I sewed came out beautiful..the second side when I sewed it.I sew wallet back facing up.After I flipped it over I noticed on the inside the needle kinda went.l between the layers..So. I thought I didn't sand evenly and my needle was dull..so I deconstruct the wallet ,new needle,sand FLAT..and bam it happens again..is my calf skin leather to soft and rolling under the pressure feet ?What is happening .I need to restart the wallet.this one is trashed

[Wizcrafts]

Use feet that are close together when sewing soft leather or cloth. Add more foot pressure to hold down the leather under the alternating inside foot. If it has its own top mounted pressure spring, screw it all the way down. Use glue or leather tape to hold the pieces in alignment for sewing and buy titanium needles to resist clogging from the glue or tape.

[garypl]

Might help to cut the pieces 1/8” oversize so there is better support at the edges while sewing.  Trim to size after you sew.

Gary

[Wizcrafts]

Sometimes it is better to use a flat foot straight stitch machine, or a roller foot machine to sew floppy leather. A Singer 31-15 does a good job sewing thin, soft leather with #69 bonded thread and takes all manner of feet and attachments.

[KennethM]

Thanks for the tips everyone

 

Aircrafts..Using #69 thread may work better with floppy leather?I been using just a left toe foot attachment vs th3 double feet