Yamata Machine

[CalypsoReCreations]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

Without seeing your sail totes, have you thought of using a binder attachment with double folded binding material. Maybe using a ripstop type material for the top edge which would give a nice clean edge without the bulk of material that you are folding over. If possible could you post a picture of your bag maybe someone could offer alternative sewing methods that would reduce the amount of material you are trying to sew through which then may affect your machine selection.

kgg

 

[CalypsoReCreations]

Go to #calypsorecreations on Instagram for better pics. I’m having a hard time uploading on this forum. My file size is too big. Thanks for the suggestion!

[CalypsoReCreations]

It’s in the side seaming and boxed corners these bags get too much for my machine to handle. It’s also a matter of wrangling the top edge through my flatbed machine. 

[kgg]

Looking at your bags and without changing your design or method of how it is constructed I think to make your life a little easier you would need three machines.

1. A machine to do the zig zag pattern ( nice touch) probably continue to use your Sailrite until it dies for that. When it dies get another portable walking foot. To help make sewing with the Sailrite a little more convenient you may want to mount it in a regular size sewing table top and put a servo motor on it. Think of what Tandy did for their Stitch Master.

2. I think a patcher machine would be a better choice then a cylinder machine for your problem areas. The patchers are meant to get into those tight areas but typically they will only sew up to 1/4" and V92 thread. I think a cylinder machine will not get in those tight spots and then be delegated to just sewing straps.

3. If you need to sew 1/2 " of material and leather for straps to the bag then I think you would get better use out of probably a flatbed something similar to a Juki 1508 which can also be used for other parts of your bag construction.

Is it possible to sew the seams, zipper and box corner of the interior that are causing the problem before installing the interior in the bag?

Is it possible to sew the straps to the bag prior to the interior being installed or another method to reduce the overall thickness you have to sew through?

If you can get the overall thickness down to 3/8" the cost of a machine would drop drastically. You could probably go from a Juki 1508 at ~ $2600 to Juki 1541S at ~$1800 or if you want to go with the clones they would be even cheaper.   

Since money is always a big consideration, I would again suggest going somewhere and bring a partly completed bag with the problem areas and leather straps not completed. Test drive some machines see what will work best.

Just my thoughts,

kgg

[nylonRigging]

On 7/24/2019 at 5:12 PM, kgg said:

Looking at your bags and without changing your design or method of how it is constructed I think to make your life a little easier you would need three machines.

1. A machine to do the zig zag pattern ( nice touch) probably continue to use your Sailrite until it dies for that. When it dies get another portable walking foot. To help make sewing with the Sailrite a little more convenient you may want to mount it in a regular size sewing table top and put a servo motor on it. Think of what Tandy did for their Stitch Master.

2. I think a patcher machine would be a better choice then a cylinder machine for your problem areas. The patchers are meant to get into those tight areas but typically they will only sew up to 1/4" and V92 thread. I think a cylinder machine will not get in those tight spots and then be delegated to just sewing straps. 

3. If you need to sew 1/2 " of material and leather for straps to the bag then I think you would get better use out of probably a flatbed something similar to a Juki 1508 which can also be used for other parts of your bag construction.

Is it possible to sew the seams, zipper and box corner of the interior that are causing the problem before installing the interior in the bag?

Is it possible to sew the straps to the bag prior to the interior being installed or another method to reduce the overall thickness you have to sew through?

If you can get the overall thickness down to 3/8" the cost of a machine would drop drastically. You could probably go from a Juki 1508 at ~ $2600 to Juki 1541S at ~$1800 or if you want to go with the clones they would be even cheaper.   

Since money is always a big consideration, I would again suggest going somewhere and bring a partly completed bag with the problem areas and leather straps not completed. Test drive some machines see what will work best.

Just my thoughts,

kgg

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what ( Kgg )  is thinking . tight area and a Patcher .

Over in Portland/Vancouver area there is a used Singer ( 29-4  ) on the Craiglist for 575-$ . You over on the coast but maybe only a half day of your time to checkout .

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/for/d/vancouver-singer-29-4-shoe-patch-sewing/6938357061.html

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Edit Add:

I just noticed the Phone # and I know 'ryan' . he easy guy to talk to and knowledgeable on the machine mechanics . 575-$ is a lot for old 29 . it have to be a excellent condition for the price . All depends on how much life still in the oldboy. pics look good though that was posted .

.

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Edited July 27, 2019 by nylonRigging

[nylonRigging]

As it was listed as in 'Excellent Shape' and 105 years old, Curiosity got me, So I did go check-out the 29-4 that I linked above because the nicer 29-4's are slimmer pickings to find now in the 21st century .
It Still sewing 5.5 to 6 SPI . It is dull and not shiny, But original paint and decals are thin . Original wooden table drawer and leather strap stop . The hardwood Treadle drive shaft still perfect shape on the original cast table stand .
I really not needing another machine. but you only need 1 guess ? to where it is sitting now ....  LOL
.

[Jeff347]

Thank you all for the recommendations about new Yamata machines. I have used a Phaff machine of varying models for more than 30 years and purchased a Yamata online and began to wonder if I really knew how to sew and then the concern about did I make a mistake buying this machine kicked in.  The sewing machine tech will be here this afternoon to tweak things and I look forward to having a beast of a machine that listens to me! HAHA Thanks again for the validation!

Edited January 18, 2020 by Jeff347

[Jeff347]

The sewing machine repair person just left and the Yamata is running much better but I did learn that the break in period we hear about with a car and never realize is the same thing with a sewing machine, or so he said.  Logically it makes sense... Any thoughts?

[kgg]

All the metal parts are new and some maybe a bit tighter then others. What I did when I got my new machine was to oil all the shafts, bearing, lube points and the ran it at low speed for a bit then gradually brought it up to full speed where I left it there for a few minutes and then reversed the procedure. Then changed the oil and re-oiled all the lube points, bearing shafts, etc. I must note that I don't strictly use sewing sewing oil in my machine. I do use the sewing machine oil in the pump reserve of the Juki 1541s but for all the other parts I use my red neck concoction (7cc's of Royal Purple Synthetic Oil SAE 5W-20 for gas engines and 5 cc's of Motormaster Full Synthetic Dexron- VI Automatic Transmission Fluid mixed together).

kgg