Members Ulendon Posted August 24, 2019 Members Report Posted August 24, 2019 They are far from perfect but good enough to give out to the people on my flyball team (team colors are red and black). I learned a lot and each one gets better. By the time I do another 7-8 for the rest of the dogs on the team, I think I might have it figured out. I would like to figure out how to get rid of some of the bulk where the hardware is. Quote
Members kiwican Posted August 24, 2019 Members Report Posted August 24, 2019 Those look super cool. Have you considered skiving down the areas around the hardware to thin it out some? Quote
Members Ulendon Posted August 24, 2019 Author Members Report Posted August 24, 2019 1 hour ago, kiwican said: Those look super cool. Have you considered skiving down the areas around the hardware to thin it out some? I did skive the base layer down about 50% but I'm afraid to loose more and have them not be strong enough. Quote
Members kiwican Posted August 25, 2019 Members Report Posted August 25, 2019 You could also try a V gouge then and carve a small trench out where the hardware will be.? Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted August 25, 2019 Contributing Member Report Posted August 25, 2019 Are you double layering the collars? you only need one layer to fold over for the hardware Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members Ulendon Posted August 25, 2019 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2019 I don't own that tool, but that seems like a good idea. Thanks! Quote
Members Ulendon Posted August 25, 2019 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2019 22 minutes ago, fredk said: Are you double layering the collars? you only need one layer to fold over for the hardware They have a base layer of 5-6 oz shoulder then 1 layer of 1/5-2 ounce red buffalo calf and a layer of 1/5-2 ounce calf on top with the cutout.So when I fold it over, I don't want just the layers of calf holding the hardware which is why I skived the base layer about in half at the fold. I tapered the skiv, but maybe I should do it more like a step? Quote
Members Ulendon Posted August 25, 2019 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2019 Here is what the spot where the D-ring goes looks like. Ignore the extra piece of leather there so the clamps don't mar the finished surface. I'm hesitant to skiv any more, these need to be really strong. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted August 25, 2019 Contributing Member Report Posted August 25, 2019 I would 1. shorten the red. feather skive it and have it end before where the layers meet on the fold, ie if the bit on the back folded over is 1 inch, then have the red end about 1.25 or 1.5 before the fold. That will take away about 2.2 mm 2. feather skive the outer and shorten it to about 3/4 the length of the outer piece, ie if the bit folded over is 1 inch then the outer layer is only about 3/4 inch long. That will make the thickness at about 1/2 inch along most of the thickness of the two outside layers but tapering away to under 1mm at their ends 3. I say 1 inch, but to me that is too short on these sorts of straps I'd have no less than 2 inches, preferably 2.5 inches 4. I think stitching across the leather is not good. I'd have two parallel lines of stitching, each about 5mm in from the edges. Each starting at the D loop, or as close to, and running at least 2 or 3 stitches over and beyond the skived ends of the folded piece Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members Ulendon Posted August 25, 2019 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2019 (edited) fredk, thank you so much! That makes total sense. What tool does one use for feather skivving? Edited August 25, 2019 by Ulendon Quote
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