Inskirt riggings

[T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery]

Ive seen a lot written about inskirt rigging and it's strengths and weaknesses but noting about how to build a sure enough bullet proof inskirt rigging.About all that is ever said is its good "if put in properly" but nothing really said about exactly what is put in properly. I've seen some supposedly strong inskirt rigs that were anything but strong. Sure they give close contact but actually strong what I've seen were far from it. Close contact strong and lightweight seem to not go together. Hopefully someone can shed a little light on how to make it strong and lightweight at the same time 

[BOB BRENNER]

Each rigging dee or plate has its own requirements for installation.  One rule I always follow is to use plugs on all inskirt riggings.  Without plugs a ridge is created that over time with the stirrup leathers rubbing on the rig, will wear the leather down to the rigging.  A couple of weeks ago at the Colorado Saddle Makers Assoc. we were working on some saddles for the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation and had a saddle with a 5053 rigging plate.  On both sides of the saddle, the leather was worn away.

Here are some examples.  

[oltoot]

I second the endorsement of plugs to result in smooth, hump free surface for stirrup leathers to rub on plus add a 22 ga sheetmetal around dees and between skirt and top piece (enfolding plug) with 2 # 8 rivits for extra strength. I always preferred 3 1/2 stainless dees for any front rig. Domed rivit heads look nice but wear off soon and leave a weakened groove on whatever moves over them

[rktaylor]

I would agree that lightweight and strong are mostly contradictory. I just finished my second in-skirt rigging, because I wanted a different challenge (saddle #8). I mostly followed the directions in Stohlman's encyclopedia for saddle 3 and some other photos I have seen on this site. I think it's pretty solid, but the only weight saved versus a flat plate was about half a rigging plate back. That's pretty negligible. I was really hoping to see more replies as I am curious what others are doing.

Randy

[EdOdgers]

There are advantages and disadvantages to any rigging style but I'm one that believes a good skirt rig is every bit as strong as a flat-plate.  Close contact and weight savings are advantages to the skirt rig but the downside is they are trickier to build, complicated to reline and repair, and some say are more prone to damage by sweat if used real hard.  I don't think the last concern is valid if you're using a good pad system but then again, I don't live where the temperature commonly exceeds 100.

My skirt rigs resembles the top panel of a flat-plate.  I'm very fussy about the leather I select for the rig panel and the skirts.  Here is the weight savings I get with my style skirt rig compared to a flat plate:  Eliminate rig liner at 1lb. 2oz.;  eliminate skirt plugs for the front half of skirts for savings of 10 oz.;  Optionally eliminating hardware for rear rig for savings of 13oz.   Thus the total savings is 1 3/4 lb. if retaining rear rig hardware,  or a savings of 2 1/2 lb. if eliminating the rear hardware and using a slot for rear rig.

I was a diehard flat-plate guy for many years but started building and riding skirt rigs after roping with Dave Weaver (Californios) and getting his endorsement for the durability of skirt rigs over 15 years ago.  He's roped more critters than anyone I know.  I now make more skirt rigs but still like flat-plates for some uses and riders. Below are a couple of pics of my versions of skirt rigs, one with slot, one with hardware for rear rig:

Note that the slot for the rear rig is through three thicknesses of skirting and surrounded by three rows of stitching.  The skirt plug is extended forward for the third thickness.  I feel this is every bit as strong as rivet-on hardware, so it comes down to personal preference like so many saddle features.