Correct thread for resoling a shoe

[MortAuxVaches]

Hi

I am in the process of rejuvenating a battered pair of mountain hiking boots. These are made of heavy leather and are of the norwegian welt construction type. Among other issues, the thread attaching the sole to the upper has worn out in a few places, and I have in mind to rip this thread off entirely and sew the sole back on with new thread. I'll be hand sewing, there are approximately six stitches per inch and the sole and leather and sole have a combined thickness around 1/4th of an inch.

At this point I'm not sure what would be the most appropriate thread (material, size) to use, and would welcome any recommendation. I'm concerned about durability of the result. I have searched quite a bit for information but most of the info I found is for fashion or luxury shoes and not really applicable to my boots. Any links or hints or info about the proper technique to achieve good results is also welcome.

Thanks,

MV

[arashikage]

I'm not sure if French or European sizes are the same but I would probably look at a 5 or 7 cord waxed linen. If you are sewing by hand the twist of the thread won't matter. It only makes a difference in outsole machines. 

There are 2 main ways you can restitch it. Saddle stitch or lock stitch. Traditionally for saddle stitching soles you would need a couple hog bristles. For lock stitching you would need a jerk needle. I'm not familiar with European suppliers but either should be fairly easy to find.  

[MortAuxVaches]

Hi,

 

Thanks for your reply. The thickest linen thread I have is 18/6 (the thickest available locally as well), and seems of smaller diameter than the original stitch. Would you recommend any make/model of thread that's thicker? I can purchase online if need be.

I intend to perform a saddle stitch, for durability reasons. My english is unfortunately limited, and I'm not sure what "hog bristles" refer to. Is this a long curved needle with a blunt tip?

Thanks,
MV

 

[arashikage]

No worries.

A hog bristle, also called a pig bristle is a hair from a pig or boar that gets weaved into the thread and functions as a flexible needle. Typically the hole made from the outsole stitcher is actually curved so the bristle will follow the curve. There are probably curved needles that will accommodate the large thread that would work just fine. Sorrel Notions & Findings carries pig bristles and metal bristles just to get an idea of what I'm talking about.
https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/?s=bristles

Lisa also carries the linen thread in 5 and 7 cord.
https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/inseaming-thread-and-hand-wax/

She is a sponsor of this forum and happens to be one of the few vendors I know that has everything you need. And she will ship internationally. 

I unfortunately don't have any brand recommendation because my family uses whatever the sales person can get them at the time. 

If you wish to find something closer to France, look for shoe repair suppliers or shoe making suppliers and they should have what you are looking for.

 

[MortAuxVaches]

Hi

Thanks for your explanation. I have bristles and thread on order and intend to resole the shoes during my Christmas break. I also stumbled on a youtube video "how to make waxed ends" which was very informative.

Regards,

MV