Crack in Leather

[mkspence]

Under more of a "How do I fix that?"...

I colored and finished a large piece of 8oz leather, then folded it to complete the project.  I heard a sharp "crack" and discovered that the top grain had split on the fold.  

Any thoughts on how to salvage this AND prevent it from happening next time?  I used Ecoflow dye in the past with success and am afraid that my use of the alcohol based Pro Dye might have dried it out this time.  Either that or its just this hide.  I really don't want tot start over....

[Northmount]

Need to see a picture of the project in order to be able to make recommendations our how to fix your particular project. 

Dry leather, especially thick leather will crack when bent sharply.  Three things you can do to help prevent cracking are to make sure you replace lost oils in the leather, make grooves in the back of the leather to reduce its thickness at the fold line, and moisten the leather along the fold before you bend it.  Let it dry in the final shape it will normally be in.

Tom

 

[mkspence]

Thank you, Tom!  I will certainly do that next time.  Here are the pictures of the crack on the fold.  Still a work in progress. Thinking about stitching a strip of leather along the fold.

[RockyAussie]

Is that crack along the top of a bag flap? If so a piece of leather integrating a handle support idea may work. A picture showing the full width of the article may help.

[mkspence]

Thanks all.  The crack is along a small portion of the bend of a rifle case for a saddle. It’s right where the strap will cross but longer than the width of the strap; the strap at the barrel end of the case.  

[Tinkerton]

Might I suggest adding a decorative strip down the bend line tooled to match the two ends to hide the crack?

[mkspence]

Thanks, Tinkerton.  I am certainly considering that.  I like that it will both cover the crack and also protect the fold from chaffing fro the straps.  I already started a wet mold of a 1.5" strap to cover the length of the fold, but may consider carving a different strap more and THEN wet molding.  Have only carved flat pieces.   

Recommendation requested: (1) carve then wet mold or (2) wet mold and then carve?  

[YinTx]

I'd carve, then wet, but only enough to get where you need to go.  Or even better form it while it is still cased.  Also follow the advice given, put some water on that bend there so the internal stress is relieved.  Then get some oil on it after the water dries out.  Then go about stitching on a cover layer.

YinTx

[Northmount]

Carving and stamping will go mushy and lose definition if wet molded after carving.  I have some photos of saddle work that illustrates the problem.  Will have to go hunting for them.  To stamp after wet molding, you need a matching solid shaped piece inside while stamping.

Tom

[YinTx]

@Northmount, yes I agree, but I think it depends on how wet you make it and how much of a bend it needs to go through.  Here is a bit of 11 oz or so that I've bent over after I tooled it.  Hasn't suffered too much, and I could easily bend it even more if needed.  But if I soaked it and formed it over something, for sure the tooling would look pretty bad.  This leather is still cased, and is pretty easy to shape.  So for one off's it may be easier to try this than make a matching solid shape to form and tool on.  If there is easy access to something that fits, by all means the best way to go.  Maybe a 2x4 with rounded edges would be easy enough to do, or a piece of pipe, depends on what the OP has available.

 

[mkspence]

Thanks all!  I think I have a piece of pipe to carve over.  I will also wet and then oil the base as you all suggested.  Even wi the crack, there is still some strain on the bend and it could get larger.  Thanks for everyone’s advice.  This is a great forum.  You all are very generous.  

[Northmount]

9 hours ago, YinTx said:

I think it depends on how wet you make it and how much of a bend it needs to go through.

Agreed, a gentle bend should not be a big problem.

I found the couple photos I was looking for that demonstrate what happens with more aggressive wet molding.

This one is obviously tooled before wet molding.

The example below was tooled (or touched up) after wet molding.

Both these saddles were commercially made and being sold in a tack shop.

This is of course much more extreme than a gentle curve as the leather had to be stretched and pulled in order to fit the swells on the tree.

Tom

 

[billybopp]

2 hours ago, mkspence said:

Thanks all!  I think I have a piece of pipe to carve over.  I will also wet and then oil the base as you all suggested.  Even wi the crack, there is still some strain on the bend and it could get larger.  Thanks for everyone’s advice.  This is a great forum.  You all are very generous.  

Just be sure, if that is a metal pipe, cover it with plastic wrap or something.  Leather can interact with metal, particularly iron, and stain.  

- Bill