Adler 104 stitch length - adjustment manual

[Pterytus]

On my machine forwards and backwards stitch length are not equal, so when changing direction the stitch-holes do not match which is not very good for locking stitches etc.

So is there an adjustment manual for the Adler 104/Adler 4 (w/o needle feed) available out there somewhere?

Quick fix would be if someone could tell me how to adjust this. I only have adjustment manuals for compound feed machines which work differently.

 

[Constabulary]

Adler 104 / 105 came with different stitch length adjuster levers. I guess you have the early one (pretty similar to Pfaff 145 but larger)?

Please post pictures of your machine.

Edited December 7, 2019 by Constabulary

[Pterytus]

Right, it's the one with the early threaded metal adjuster knob, oh, and it's a -4 subclass.

 

Edited December 7, 2019 by Pterytus
jpg instead of large tiff

[Constabulary]

Haven't done this on a 104 but I would guess you can equalize the F & R stitch length by repositioning the feed eccentric on the top shaft. However unequal wear on the stitch length scale plate or the wedge piece on the stitch length lever which touching the scale plate may cause uneven stitch length as well. But I can´t tell the condition from this picture.

Or - just a guess - have you tried to turn the wedge piece on the stitch length lever by 180°? You never know...

Edited December 8, 2019 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

BTW - the check spring is hanging loose, it should rest on the pin sticking out of the oval hole near the lower tension unit

[Pterytus]

Thanx, good points. The scale plate is a little worn, this shouldn't have too much of an effect cause it's not too bad, but I'm going to check that at first, also the wedge piece. If that's not it - which I expect - I'll have to adjust the eccentric trial and error style, I guess ;-)

And yes, the check spring was misplaced (pretty obvious, now that I look at the picture again...). I corrected this when I tried to thread it (after the photo was taken) but thank you for the tip anyways.

[Pterytus]

Ok, so it's not the wedge piece, which works the same 0° and 180°. The scale plate is worn only in certain areas (f/r approx. the same amount btw.). Test in worn and not-worn areas still result in different stitch lengths f and r.

Adjusting the eccentric helped, but didn't completely equal out f and r feed (still 8.5f to 7.5r). Further rotation only results in backwards transport at the end of forwards movement - which can't be the solution, obviously.

So a little nonconlusive here - but hey! Who wants to go Backwards anyway...

 

[Bert51]

I have an Adler 105-6 and sadly awhile back I jammed it up and my stitch length went south. I have 8mm forward and about 6mm reverse, by Uwe's stitch length guide.

When I changed my machine from 7x1 needles to 328 needles could not have tighten the allen screws enough on the drive dogs and they moved. I quickly took the head off the table and as I did not mark the final position I took a guess where it should be and finished the sewing.

Sadly I did not get it where I want it, but when it annoys me enough I will take it off the table and do it properly.

Bert.

[Pterytus]

Well, I'd strip it, if only I knew where to start tweaking. Turning the eccentric on the main shaft does not do the job and I don't know where else to look but I'm pretty sure it's just a matter of adjustment somewhere somehow...

On the furthest dead center of the feed dog (nearest to the back of the machine), there is nearly no gap in the stitch plate. And lots of gap in the stitch plate on it's nearest dead center (nearest to the front of the machine), so the feed dog seem to be off center by quite a bit.

When the feed dog is in it's furthest dead center and I change from f to r the feed dog moves to the front first but goes a litte back in the end. This is the "missing" r feed travel.

When the feed dog is in it's nearest dead center and I change from f to r the feed dog moves a little further to the front first and then all the way to the back, accordingly.

I have a small smooth running Haid&Neu Torpedo which works pretty similar to the Adler design-wise (two or so notches down the size-o-meter). I think I will play with it a little to try and unterstand what's going on. If I get to the bottom of it on the H&N it's just a matter of bigger screwdrivers for the Adler.

[Bert51]

I used the manual from the Adler 205-370 as my guide.

I was told to use them by the Adler mechanic here in Australia. The instruction are similar to 105 or 104.

Here is the operators English version, https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205-370/B_204_370_EN.pdf

Service manual, https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205-370/S_204_370_DE_EN_FR_ES_IT.pdf

Bert.

Edited December 9, 2019 by Bert51