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Posted

The main thing to find out was the "adjustable vs. built-in" problem.

And because it seems to be built-in mainly (not that you could not make it even worse by bad adjustment) and cannot be cured with a screwdriver, the matter is kind of "solved" for me anyway. The work-around is independent from that. So thank you for your helpful input!

Sure, I'd keep the original frame anyway and the plastic would only be to test if it works, maybe optimize it and finally build a copy from metal which lasts. I'm pretty happy with all-metal machines and would not add something plastic for real usage.

----

If I actually HAD a flux capacitor (and maybe a Delorean), I'd travel back in time and tell the Adler guys to place the damn pivot point in a better place to solve that problem once and for all - unless, that is, they'd put me in a loony bin, which is a far more likeley scenario... :-)

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Posted

Okay, I just HAD to test it ;-)
No 3D-Printer, no plastic. Metal it is - so it took some time but it came out ok, I think.

Before, with the flat frame it was:
short: F1.4mm/R2.1mm (50% off!)
middle: F4.8mm/R5mm (that was the only SL-area which was ok)
long: F9.7mm/R8.1mm

I tried three different stitch lengths with the new SLL-frame F and R and they came out fairly equal:
short: F1.9mm/R2.1mm
middle: F4.6mm/R4.8mm
long: F8.1mm/R7.9mm

Which is enough for the 2-3 backwards stitches I usually need. So now I can rest!

SLL-custom-frame1.jpg

SLL-custom-frame2.jpg

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Posted

Very nice! Still wondering what the "original issue" was - or is. Anyway - as long as it works for you this way its a good solution. Well done!

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

Well, with me sometimes it's "personalizing" my machines - I just can't leave the things the way they are. And if I can improve things in the process (or at least don't make 'em WORSE ;-) then I'm likely to go for it.

Now I do not have to adjust backwards stitch length once I change forwards stitch length. I know me: I'd just forget it and create "false" stitches while trying to lock a seam. Especially on leather I'd rather avoid that.

Oh, glue is dried - so back to sewing X-max presents ;-D

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