Dufresne Report post Posted January 5, 2020 Hi folks. I took apart the head on my 29k171. Just for service. Then I was ill for to long. Does anyone have a video showing the re assembly. For the most part I know where the pieces go. I’m sure there’s an order that makes life easier. i think my have the foot bar in backward. It won’t line up with the appropriate screws at the top. I have a diagram but it’s not very clear. Thanks in advance for any help. id really love to take the whole machine apart as it’s never been properly serviced. I can’t really see an serious wear in the head. Some amount on the foot bar where the stitch regulator sits. It was not sewing well so I decided it was time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted January 5, 2020 Found this, it is a older model but not much is different, at least your foot bar and so on will be the same. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dufresne Report post Posted January 5, 2020 Thank you Jimi: I think I’ll need watch this a few times . Good Info . thank you for you help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) Don´t know what parts diagram you have but this one is the best you can find - very clear and detailed. Download: Singer 29K71 29K72 29K73 Manual and Parts List Edited January 6, 2020 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dufresne Report post Posted January 7, 2020 Thank you. My diagram is not this clear. I’m having an issue getting the foot bar in.. I suspect I’m just doing things in the wrong sequence. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dufresne Report post Posted January 30, 2020 On 1/6/2020 at 7:14 PM, Dufresne said: Thank you. My diagram is not this clear. I’m having an issue getting the foot bar in.. I suspect I’m just doing things in the wrong sequence. I’ve got the head all back together clean oil and new grease. All seems smooth . It’s still not sewing well. The top tension is as loose as it can be. Bobbin tension is good. It stitches well on flat thin material. As soon as I put it under a load it skips stitches. I’m sewing a lot of synthetic leather in tight areas on hockey gloves. There must be instructions somewhere to reset all adjustments after a good servicing? I’ve checked the timing , tension, proper thread and needles. I even found some original singer needs in the shop! To eliminate an error there I put in a new singer needle. The stitch length adjuster was traveling so i checked the parts manual and righted that. ive sewn on this machine for many years doing the same jobs. it just doesn’t feel the same. It feels like the foot is floating and as soon as there is the slightest need to go around in a tight spot it skips stitches or it won’t sew at all. I’ve tried more pressure on the foot and I know to adjust the knurl nut to a lower setting reset the tension if necessary . I have put on a different but not new foot. getting so frustrated so I thought I’d try a thicker piece of leather. Changed all the settings required. Wouldn’t make one complete stitch! The strap leather pulls up with the needle. So I put some oil on the material no difference. Any thoughts are appreciate. i live in Calgary Alberta Canada cheers Elaine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted January 30, 2020 (edited) Have you tried to move the needle holder a bit closer to the hook? Also check the paddle shaped spring on the needle bar, sometimes they wear out and have a grove on the inside. When the leather is pulled up with the needle you need more foot pressure. What needle size and thread size are you using? Maybe you can try 135x16 needles because they have a scarf and can be set a bit closer to the hook. I`m also using 135x17 / 135x16 needle in my 29K71. Just what came to my mind... Please post pictures of your machine so maybe we can see something "unusual". Edited January 30, 2020 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dufresne Report post Posted January 30, 2020 8 hours ago, Constabulary said: Have you tried to move the needle holder a bit closer to the hook? Also check the paddle shaped spring on the needle bar, sometimes they wear out and have a grove on the inside. When the leather is pulled up with the needle you need more foot pressure. What needle size and thread size are you using? Maybe you can try 135x16 needles because they have a scarf and can be set a bit closer to the hook. I`m also using 135x17 / 135x16 needle in my 29K71. Just what came to my mind... Please post pictures of your machine so maybe we can see something "unusual". I could not remove that spring on the needle bar. I tried several small screw drivers. They have been a bit abused so I didn’t force them for fear of breaking them. I’ll try to take some low res photos and post. Thanks again for the tips. I will try your suggestions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dufresne Report post Posted February 8, 2020 I did get the screws out of the thread spring in the needle bar. I have a new spring but the bar has a obvious worn grove from the thread. I have a spare needle bar but it is the same. Any comments appreciated. If any other parts look worn please comment. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snakeoil Report post Posted February 8, 2020 I'm a newbie with about 3 weeks of experience with these machines, so please keep that in mind. First, I found the file below a few days ago. Might be helpful for future reference. Somebody posted it here several years ago. Regarding that groove in your needle bar. If that is truly wear and the area should be flat, here is an untried suggestion. Get some good epoxy like PC-7 or JB Weld. Thoroughly degrease the area and fill that groove with epoxy. Once cured, dress it down with a fine cut file until you are back to flat and only the groove is filled. Not as tough as steel, but pretty tough stuff. I've used it for pitting fork tubes on old British motorcycles with great success. Also did the hydraulic cylinder rams on an old Cat dozer 30 years ago. They were a pitted mess and they are still leak free today. If you have access to fine steel powder, mix some in with the epoxy and it will have better wear resistance. If you have a good industrial supply house near you, or want to search the web, they make metal filled epoxies for repairs like this. I've used them to repair milling machine tables after somebody had run a cutter into them. I'll be digging into my head next week so that video Jimi posted should be helpful. Thx. regards, Rob Singer29K13 Rebuild.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dufresne Report post Posted February 9, 2020 Thank you Rob and Constabulary. For the help. I’d like to try to get a new part. If that fails I will try the JB weld. I’m sorry these photos are so small , I’m sure none of you can see the pieces well. i will also try some 135 needles and the appropriate thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted February 9, 2020 When I restored my 29K71 approx 5-6 years ago I bought a NB form College Sewing in the UK and they were fair priced considering what I saw on Ebay back then but shipping could be an issue for you. Meanwhile you find a lot more 29K parts on ebay or elsewhere. Pretty sure most dealers who support this site can supply the 29K71 NB. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
