Thread Selection

[rodneywt1180b]

I use Ritza 25 Tiger Thread, primarily 1.0 mm these days.  Here's a link to my supplier. https://www.etsy.com/shop/EgyptianLeather?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=240430964  The owner John is a good guy with always fast  and helpful service.  He sells up to 1.4 mm thread which is pretty much rope compared to 1 mm in a variety of colors.  He also stocks John James needles.  Ask him which size he recommends for the size thread you want to use.

Hope this helps.

[johnv474]

From my experience, your only thread choice is linen.  A few brands are best known: Barbours, Campbells, and Sajou's Fil Au Chinois.

You can buy unwaxed linen thread from Tandy, Weaver Leather, Amazon, Springfield Leather, Etsy, and Ebay.  If you have a shoe repair shop nearby, or a saddle/tack repair place, you may be able to buy some from their stock.

Why linen?  Well, it's stronger than cotton, but not nearly as strong as synthetics like nylon or polyester.  (By the way, strength is not the only factor that matters).  It gets slightly stronger when wet, doesn't untie itself like synthetics, and has been used since forever in leatherwork.  The key reason is none of these--if you buy it unwaxed then you can dye it to the color you want (using fabric or leather dyes).  That was one of your critical requirements and is the only suitable thread for leather that meets that requirement.  Synthetics, for our purposes, can't be dyed by the end user.

Bonus: linen is much thicker than synthetic threads.  Based on your description I am guessing that you would be satisfied with a 5 cord natural unwaxed Barbours thread, which I'd estimate to be just over 1mm thick. That is a reasonable thickness to suggest based on what you have asked for.  Bad news is that you usually need to buy a pound of it, and that will cost you about $55, but it will last you a long, long time.  It is generally available in 3 cord up to 7 cord for leatherwork.

[CIC]

On 1/12/2020 at 8:25 AM, JLSleather said:

"Where's the good thread?" returns links to pictures of sides vs backs 'n' bellies, discussion of various types of needles, and a suggestion to search elsewhere

As I re-read your post I can't help to ask myself, "Did I ever ask about sides & backs & bellies or needles?"  Is that even on the same planet as an acceptable response to a query about thread (whether I could reproduce it or not?)  Is that what your laffing smiley was all about?  Sure, I can be thick sometimes, but I'm right confused about this one.

And thanks for the thread sites.