Hand stitching - front and back

[KarlProsek]

Hello,

By stitching a couple of wallets i become aware of a difference between the front and the back side of stitching. Attached you can find an example made on scrap leather.

It is possible to stitch the thread on the back side as the front one? The back side seems just straight, instead of the front one that is much better.

Best regards and thanks in advance

Karl

 

[billybopp]

Your front side stitching looks really good.   It is quite common for the back side or your stitch to look straighter than the front.  It tends to be more pronounced in thinner leather than in thick.  Threads need some space to cross one another in the leather, which is easier with thicker leather (or thinner thread).  Casting your stitch (pulling the thread back over) can help, but also tends to reduce the slant on the front side in a sort of compromise.  Another non-traditional way to deal with this is to use your pricking iron to mark front and back separately so that they slant in opposite directions, and pre-make the slits with an awl (or if it's thin enough, just make the slit with the pricking iron).  This will help thread back and front to more easily slant the right direction.

Hope that helps 

- Bill

[Tugadude]

Karl, I agree the front looks pretty good!  It helps us to know what your process is.  By looking at it, it appears you are using an awl to make the holes, is that correct?  Are you using a spacing wheel or a pricking iron?  

Your holes appear to me to be a little past 45 degrees, which is a good angle.  If they are too vertical, it will hamper the result.  Billybopp has some good suggestions to help the matter.  You can also review Nigel Armitages youtube videos on saddle stitching for pointers.  

If you are interested in stitching chisels, there is a thread created under the tab "Sewing Leather" that might be helpful.

[KarlProsek]

3 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Karl, I agree the front looks pretty good!  It helps us to know what your process is.  By looking at it, it appears you are using an awl to make the holes, is that correct?  Are you using a spacing wheel or a pricking iron?  

Your holes appear to me to be a little past 45 degrees, which is a good angle.  If they are too vertical, it will hamper the result.  Billybopp has some good suggestions to help the matter.  You can also review Nigel Armitages youtube videos on saddle stitching for pointers.  

If you are interested in stitching chisels, there is a thread created under the tab "Sewing Leather" that might be helpful.

Thanks for your help.

I use pricking irons to mark the holes but i use an awl to actually make them.

[Tugadude]

Make sure you are keeping the awl perfectly perpendicular to the leather and following the slant of the pricking iron.  Do you know what brand of iron you are using?  Comparing front to back, there might be some variations.  Take a close look and see what you think.  Hold a straight edge to the slits and judge whether they are in a straight line and observe the angles.

[KarlProsek]

7 hours ago, billybopp said:

Your front side stitching looks really good.   It is quite common for the back side or your stitch to look straighter than the front.  It tends to be more pronounced in thinner leather than in thick.  Threads need some space to cross one another in the leather, which is easier with thicker leather (or thinner thread).  Casting your stitch (pulling the thread back over) can help, but also tends to reduce the slant on the front side in a sort of compromise.  Another non-traditional way to deal with this is to use your pricking iron to mark front and back separately so that they slant in opposite directions, and pre-make the slits with an awl (or if it's thin enough, just make the slit with the pricking iron).  This will help thread back and front to more easily slant the right direction.

Hope that helps 

- Bill

Thanks for your help, i will give a shot to both your advise

bye

Karl

[KarlProsek]

23 hours ago, billybopp said:

Your front side stitching looks really good.   It is quite common for the back side or your stitch to look straighter than the front.  It tends to be more pronounced in thinner leather than in thick.  Threads need some space to cross one another in the leather, which is easier with thicker leather (or thinner thread).  Casting your stitch (pulling the thread back over) can help, but also tends to reduce the slant on the front side in a sort of compromise.  Another non-traditional way to deal with this is to use your pricking iron to mark front and back separately so that they slant in opposite directions, and pre-make the slits with an awl (or if it's thin enough, just make the slit with the pricking iron).  This will help thread back and front to more easily slant the right direction.

Hope that helps 

- Bill

Hi, i tried to cast the stitch without good results.

So i tried to prick both side of the leather to get the slanting in opposite directions. Stitching was harder because the cutting made by the awl was small and the leather is thin. Apart from that, WE did it! Attached images...

thank you all, i will use this method when necessary, i’m really happy with the result, considering that is the first try.

thanks again

Karl

[billybopp]

Looks good!   I'm glad it worked for you.

- Bill

[Tugadude]

1 hour ago, billybopp said:

Looks good!   I'm glad it worked for you.

- Bill

Ditto!