ADLER 105-25 stitch length

[pella]

A friend of mine let me a machine, wich is a ADLER 105-25 mo. I am setting the machine but the stitch lenght is stuck to 5 or 6 point to the inch, wich is far too long for my taste. How can i repair that? Are there some machine expert around? I have a base in sewing machine repair, but i do not remember ever had to touch this stitching lenght arm...

You have to turn the ball handle to release and then you can place the arm upper or lower to adjust, not is serve no purpose :

thank you in advance for your help, or if you know someone who have the owner manual

Edited September 6, 2007 by pella

[Art]

Hi Pella,

Make sure the thread take-up arm is in the full up position then loosen the lock on the stitch length lever and adjust the lever; you might have to turn a collar to adjust the lever. If all else fails, call Weaver and talk to Vern, or Ferdco and talk to Ron, they can help. Call Vern first, he deals Adlers.

Art

A friend of mine let me a machine, wich is a ADLER 105-25 mo. I am setting the machine but the stitch lenght is stuck to 5 or 6 point to the inch, wich is far too long for my taste. How can i repair that? Are there some machine expert around? I have a base in sewing machine repair, but i do not remember ever had to touch this stitching lenght arm...

You have to turn the ball handle to release and then you can place the arm upper or lower to adjust, not is serve no purpose :

thank you in advance for your help, or if you know someone who have the owner manual

[greg gomersall]

Pella both the 105-25mo and the 205-25mo were special order machines designed for sewing pleats in the feet of moccassons. They are a bottom feed only machine and you will probably not be very happy with them as a saddle sticher. Greg

[pella]

Thank you for the info greg, i didint know it was made for mocassins. The feed and needle plate is modified, i can see big blob of bronze. I dont know if that was made by the company, it look home-made.

I am not sure about what is a bottom feed, but i can say it is pretty exactly like my tippman boss. What is best as a saddle stitcher? Needle feed, but why?

Anyway, the only thing i will machine stich on saddles is the skirts, ah maybe thats the problem? the wool? I repair a lots with kodel fleece and dont have too much problem with my tippman...exept the wool sometime caught in the "bobbin".

I hope to be able to use the machine for general repairs, chaps, bags, halter and bridle maybe. I dont know for now, i do most hand stitched. It do not take a lot of leather, big max 2 layers of skirting and it fit tight, so my tippman is still useful.

I look at the arm, and there is no collar, i see no screw, nothing that look like "adjust me!!"

I dont feel confortable calling at weaver, i have an old machine, i dont want to bother them with that, i suppose he help his customer for the new adler he sell. I just dont have the money for a "even" used machine, so i feel lucky to have this machine for free now.

nb: what is pleats?

[greg gomersall]

Pella try getting ahold of Landis-Letendre in Quebec for help with your machine. It appears (no offence) that you probably are more comfortable speaking french and they might be able to communicate more fluidly with you to help you with your machine. While you are talking to them quiz them out on a Pearson #6 Harness Stitcher, if you can figure out how to pay for it, it will be the best money you will ever spend on a sewing machine. I have used the same machine for over 22 years now, they are simple to run and maitain and are foolproof. Ferdco, Luberto"s and some other tried to copy it a few years back but they really screwed up with the machine they came out with. Art might want to jump in here as by the photo he posts for an avitor he has one of the copies. Greg

[pella]

I know the pearson, thats my dream machine, by it "look" because i never tried it. I ask landis couple years ago, and they had one for 3500$ There is another guy in Toronto that rebuit them, couple years ago, it was 4000$. Possible to get them direct from a saddler for less maybe 2500$ but problem is to find the saddler who want to sell...

but for now, it is not a priority, i just want to fix this adler machine. I guess i will need to contact a profesional.

thank you for the help

[Art]

Hi Greg,

The ASE (or ASC) No. 9 is what I call Daughter of Pearson. Nothing will ever be a Pearson but a Pearson. The No 9 is probably the "closest" to a Pearson, on everything after that they kept trying to "improve" the design. I know a few who have had the Ferdco 6/6 and they wern't all that happy with it after using my No. 9, good thing they never tried the Pearson. The No. 9 will do harness and belts all day long and never a complaint. I have never needed to motorize mine, it works effeortlessly. These machines are very easy to work on, jump foot, needle feed, cam driven, EZ. Grease, Oil and she's happy. One positive point for the Pearson clones, they are fitted with oscillating rotary shuttles which are easier to find parts for when you need them. I liked the old flat or curved race loom shuttles, although they can be scary as heck when you are throwing that much weight around quickly. Makes an impression that will keep you diligent about oiling shuttle races.

One thing about the Pearson and the No. 9, I can make almost (for the pearson every) part on them on the mill or lathe and drill press. This with setups within my capabilities and tolerances (and 1938 vintage equipment). That becomes important when using older machinery.

I guess the quality and utility of the Pearson is pretty much defined by the prices they bring. A good Pearson will bring as much as a brand new Classic.

Art

Pella try getting ahold of Landis-Letendre in Quebec for help with your machine. It appears (no offence) that you probably are more comfortable speaking french and they might be able to communicate more fluidly with you to help you with your machine. While you are talking to them quiz them out on a Pearson #6 Harness Stitcher, if you can figure out how to pay for it, it will be the best money you will ever spend on a sewing machine. I have used the same machine for over 22 years now, they are simple to run and maitain and are foolproof. Ferdco, Luberto"s and some other tried to copy it a few years back but they really screwed up with the machine they came out with. Art might want to jump in here as by the photo he posts for an avitor he has one of the copies. Greg

[greg gomersall]

Hi Greg,

The ASE (or ASC) No. 9 is what I call Daughter of Pearson. Nothing will ever be a Pearson but a Pearson. The No 9 is probably the "closest" to a Pearson, on everything after that they kept trying to "improve" the design. I know a few who have had the Ferdco 6/6 and they wern't all that happy with it after using my No. 9, good thing they never tried the Pearson. The No. 9 will do harness and belts all day long and never a complaint. I have never needed to motorize mine, it works effeortlessly. These machines are very easy to work on, jump foot, needle feed, cam driven, EZ. Grease, Oil and she's happy. One positive point for the Pearson clones, they are fitted with oscillating rotary shuttles which are easier to find parts for when you need them. I liked the old flat or curved race loom shuttles, although they can be scary as heck when you are throwing that much weight around quickly. Makes an impression that will keep you diligent about oiling shuttle races.

One thing about the Pearson and the No. 9, I can make almost (for the pearson every) part on them on the mill or lathe and drill press. This with setups within my capabilities and tolerances (and 1938 vintage equipment). That becomes important when using older machinery.

I guess the quality and utility of the Pearson is pretty much defined by the prices they bring. A good Pearson will bring as much as a brand new Classic.

Art

Art; they dropped the yoke off of the back of the copies that operated the needle movement ( stitich length) so that only the top portion advanced with each revolution of the flywheel. On the pearson that yoke also operated the bottom needle assist simultansly. This bottom needle assist could be adjusted to even compensate for different sizes of needles and when your work was moved back the pull came from top and bottom not just the top as with the reproductions. Like I previously said Tony Luberto about fell off his chair when we discussed this. As for parts there are a couple companies making pretty much anything one might ever need from new shuttles to thread locks and springs etc. and any half competent machinist can build what ever you might need otherwise. Schmetz produces needles in sizes 160,200,230,250 & 280 so needle availiblity is also not an issue. Greg