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Atlr9640

Appropriate stitch length and pattern

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hello all,

I Was wondering if anyone had some tips on the best way to align the right stitch/pricking length with a pattern so it fits perfectly around. The main Issue I have is when making a wallet sometimes my pricking iron will pierce the t-slots in the side and having long stitches and short stitches which become noticeable.

I know I should be adjusting the pattern to the stitch length I want but I’m still having difficulty. 
Any help would be greatly appreciated

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This sort of question comes up all the time.

With no offence directed at you.

1. think ahead on your stitches.

2. Its inevitable and most likely that your stitch lengths will not match the length you have to sew

3. on your wallet T pieces its usual to have a stitch going over the edge of the material; make the holes for these first. If you are using a 4-tooth sewing punch, put two teeth either side of the top of the T.

4. Work away from the top of the T,  to the bottom and top corners, but stop short about the 3/4 distance.

5.  punch the corner sewing holes

6. continue the rows of holes from the T towards the corner hole, adjust the spacing of the final few holes

7. work from the corner holes towards each other, across the top and bottom of the wallet. Work towards the centre alternately from each end.

8. stop punching as you near the centre

9. Adjust the final few holes for even spacing

This sounds long and difficult but its very quick in practice and once you've done it a few times it becomes the natural way to do it.

Very often the adjustment of spacing of some of the stitches is only a fraction of a millimetre which is hardly noticeable

An alternative to 4-5-6 is

4. punch the corner sewing holes

5. punch the holes from the corner holes towards the holes punched in #3

6. either adjust the spacing of the last few holes as you approach the T piece, or adjust the spacing as you go along

 

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On 4/27/2020 at 8:43 PM, fredk said:

This sort of question comes up all the time.

With no offence directed at you.

1. think ahead on your stitches.

2. Its inevitable and most likely that your stitch lengths will not match the length you have to sew

3. on your wallet T pieces its usual to have a stitch going over the edge of the material; make the holes for these first. If you are using a 4-tooth sewing punch, put two teeth either side of the top of the T.

4. Work away from the top of the T,  to the bottom and top corners, but stop short about the 3/4 distance.

5.  punch the corner sewing holes

6. continue the rows of holes from the T towards the corner hole, adjust the spacing of the final few holes

7. work from the corner holes towards each other, across the top and bottom of the wallet. Work towards the centre alternately from each end.

8. stop punching as you near the centre

9. Adjust the final few holes for even spacing

This sounds long and difficult but its very quick in practice and once you've done it a few times it becomes the natural way to do it.

Very often the adjustment of spacing of some of the stitches is only a fraction of a millimetre which is hardly noticeable

An alternative to 4-5-6 is

4. punch the corner sewing holes

5. punch the holes from the corner holes towards the holes punched in #3

6. either adjust the spacing of the last few holes as you approach the T piece, or adjust the spacing as you go along

 

Thank you very much and I imagine it is a common question, this has helped a lot I’ll post a Picture soon showing my results

 

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I prepunch my patterns so every hole is counted for. 

Namnlöst.jpg

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On 4/30/2020 at 12:40 PM, Danne said:

I prepunch my patterns so every hole is counted for. 

Namnlöst.jpg

Great tip, would you mind me asking what kind of pattern paper/material that is?

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18 minutes ago, Atlr9640 said:

Great tip, would you mind me asking what kind of pattern paper/material that is?

160g (thickest paper for my printer, I think this was some laser photo paper, but it doesn't matter) When I make the first product I usually just cut out the template a little oversized and tape it to the leather and cut. When i'm certain i'm satisfied with a template I print it and glue it to some thicker "card board paper" (I use a regular glue stick)

Something like this. 

cardboard.jpg

Edited by Danne

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