How to sew around right angle

[chuckgaudette]

Hello All, I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to machine sew around a right angle like the example here. I have a cylinder arm machine and I’m using fairly thin soft leather. I’ve tried sewing from the face and from the gusset side but the results haven’t been very good. The leather bunches up going around that angle. Is there a technique I’m not aware of? Do you sew this in 3 sections and then hand sew across the angle? Looking at the example under a magnifying glass it does appear the stitches across the angle are slightly longer than the others. Does anyone have a suggestion for me?

 

Thanks

[RockyAussie]

I would avoid designing in such tight corners if possible but a few things come to mind. Any stiffeners would have to be left out until all the stitching has been done.A small cylinder end with a raised needle plate piece and higher feed dog would be desirable similar to the pictures below.Note that this will impact on the stitch length possible and obviously the thickness of the product will be lessened than usual but is unlikely to be a problem.

[chuckgaudette]

Brian, this is an interesting idea. I know this is a difficult design but I'm always curious as to how things are done. I've never seen a raised needle plate like this. I wonder if I can get one for my Pfaff 335.  Thanks for your expert suggestion. Chuck

[RockyAussie]

7 minutes ago, chuckgaudette said:

Brian, this is an interesting idea. I know this is a difficult design but I'm always curious as to how things are done. I've never seen a raised needle plate like this. I wonder if I can get one for my Pfaff 335.  Thanks for your expert suggestion. Chuck

I found these pictures some time ago and saved them in case I felt the need to one day make them or try and buy them. I will have to try a google search and see how I go. It is for a 669 Adler............. found something -    https://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=2134

HERE IS ANOTHER SCARY ONE PIC BELOW

https://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=2176

Now we just need some French speaking person to chime in here...

[chuckgaudette]

this looks like a good solution. I emailed Uwe to see if he knows where I can get this raised needle plate. Thanks so much Brian

[RockyAussie]

Another thought if necessary is to get a cheap set and build them up with some plate and silver solder on top. A quick look found this set for under $20.00 US

https://www.ebay.com.au/i/142504673433?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=142504673433&targetid=894943437993&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9069152&poi=&campaignid=9773406700&mkgroupid=100117145936&rlsatarget=aud-786643580366:pla-894943437993&abcId=578876&merchantid=7364522&gclid=CjwKCAjw8df2BRA3EiwAvfZWaCkXW-D8EGF8md8ArJf4h56G39u-5ixbKEaBze3yYRwKBoa0MJKq_RoCTHMQAvD_BwE

I would think about making up a new plate as well for the stitch increment adjustment so as to limit the up and down movement in order to not accidentally make the stitch length go too long.

[RockyAussie]

This set may be getting a bit too small in stitch length but maybe - http://www.kwokhing.com/2003foot/page32e.html

Some info in this post may be worth a read as well.

 

[chuckgaudette]

Does this look like a project for a 3d printer? If it's only used once in a while it might not require steel. I could make a couple of variations 

[chuckgaudette]

twenty dollars is a good price to experiment with this. Thanks Brian. 

[RockyAussie]

 

17 minutes ago, chuckgaudette said:

Does this look like a project for a 3d printer? If it's only used once in a while it might not require steel. I could make a couple of variations 

I think that the needle plate would be OK but as for the foot build up I don't know and I think a cheap metal set might be a better bet. The foot would need to be ground smaller on the front and back sides but adding a little plate on top and then drilling the hole out from the bottom should be pretty easy I think. It could be worth printing the needle plate as that would allow you to test all sorts of extremes I reckon. You could print out a smaller bobbin cover case as well which will give you a bit more manoeuvring room. here is an stl if you dont have it already - It fits the 335 as well

Adler Bobbin Cover.stl

 

This one on my 69 adler note that I have sanded back a fair bit out of the needle plate as well which helps.

[chuckgaudette]

Thanks Brian. Your craftsmanship in making jigs and parts is as impressive as your leatherwork 

[miker]

check out these machines!

https://www.tegosrl.com/te1go-te1go-dx-te1go-dx-640-macchina-a-colonna-post-bed-sewing-machine/

[Rahere]

On 6/3/2020 at 12:37 AM, RockyAussie said:

I found these pictures some time ago and saved them in case I felt the need to one day make them or try and buy them. I will have to try a google search and see how I go. It is for a 669 Adler............. found something -    https://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=2134

HERE IS ANOTHER SCARY ONE PIC BELOW

On 6/3/2020 at 12:37 AM, RockyAussie said:

I found these pictures some time ago and saved them in case I felt the need to one day make them or try and buy them. I will have to try a google search and see how I go. It is for a 669 Adler............. found something -    https://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=2134

HERE IS ANOTHER SCARY ONE PIC BELOW

https://mando.fr/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=2176

Now we just need some French speaking person to chime in here...

Now we just need some French speaking person to chime in here...

What it says on the tin. A 13mm needle plater for an adler 66g. Everything included.