Members mishka Posted August 16, 2020 Members Report Posted August 16, 2020 I used brown Fiebings Pro dye on a project , applied some BLO after and then put some atom wax on top. Looks good but seems that some dye is rubbing off. Please advise on how to seal leather after i use Fiebings pro. TIA Quote
Members Alaisiagae Posted August 16, 2020 Members Report Posted August 16, 2020 Fiebing's Resolene would be a good choice. Not sure how good it will work if there's wax on top of the leather, that might prevent the Resolene from getting to the leather. Quote
Members mishka Posted August 17, 2020 Author Members Report Posted August 17, 2020 From reading up a bit more looks like I need to : 1. Deglaze leather before dying 2. Dye ( I use Fliebings pro) 3. Buff/rub with clean cloth 4. Clean pigment residue with saddle soap 5. Apply conditioner ( whats the good conditioner btw? ) 6. Fiebings Tan Kote 7. Resoline/Acrilic 50/50 w water top coat ? Or leave at step 6? Im I on the right track here? TIA Quote
Members Alaisiagae Posted August 18, 2020 Members Report Posted August 18, 2020 Could you provide more details about the project, specifically the type of leather? If it is undyed & unfinished ved-tan, I don't think you'd need a deglazer, since there's be nothing to remove. From what I can recall, Fiebing's Tan Kote is a type of finish, isn't it? It would seem redundant to use both Tan Kote + Resolene. If you have any scrap leather, you can test out how it looks using one, the other, and both. A good conditioner - good question! Pure Neatsfoot oil is commonly recommended, but will significantly darken the leather. Many conditioners will darken the leather, but not all of them - think the oilier the conditioner, the more of a darkening effect you might see; whereas something waxier might not darken it as much. I'm not sure, as I haven't experimented with conditioners. I would think it also possible to apply a conditioner after you've sealed it, which is what I have done in the past. Because my sealer doesn't have any wax, I don't think there's a problem with the oil being able to penetrate in there. Quote
Members mishka Posted August 19, 2020 Author Members Report Posted August 19, 2020 Im using a veg tan undyed/unfinished leather for buttstock wrap. I have some Tandy's Neatsfoot oil compaund so im not sure if its worse then pure neatsfoot oil. Yes i agree it does darken leather . Quote
Members Alaisiagae Posted August 20, 2020 Members Report Posted August 20, 2020 (edited) If it's regular veg-tan (undyed, unfinished), you would not need a deglazer before dying. My understanding is that the deglazer is meant to strip a finish off of finished leather goods (like a handbag) so that you can re-dye them or do touch-up dying. If it was me, this is my process: tool/stamp/carve/punch -> dye -> finish -> sew/lace. I use Super Shene (equivalent to Fiebing's Resolene) or Tandy's Neat-Lac. After a few days to let everything dry 100%, I would apply a conditioner. I can't say if this is the absolutely best proper order - maybe apply the conditioner after dyeing and before the finish (especially if the finish is waxy)? I don't know the precise difference between pure neatsfoot oil (NFO) and NFO compound, other than that I have read some posts on this board that advise using pure NFO and not the NFO compound. I've used Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator on some of my finished veg-tan goods, and it doesn't really darken the leather at all (it's a waxy paste). I've used a Leather Conditioner I bought of Amazon for my leather dress shoes, and for one pair of boots I used mink oil (the leather had lightened considerably due to wear-and-tear). I probably would not use the leather conditioner on my veg tan unless I read the ingredients carefully; the mink oil paste might be okay. Edited August 20, 2020 by Alaisiagae Quote
Members mishka Posted August 21, 2020 Author Members Report Posted August 21, 2020 Thanks guys. I think i got some pretty good results on test strips by sealing with tan kote. Will play some more with this. Quote
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