Wrapping Horn

[Ken Nelson]

I use a pair of lasting pliers to pull as much slack out of the wings as I can when I put the wraps on the horn.   I tack them, ( leaving the tacks out a little so I can pull them) then I take my "choke strap", very wet and a lot of white saddle soap on it and pull the wrap tight.  It is surprising the slack that the choke strap will pull out. I work on choking a horn wrap several times to make sure I get it to my satisfaction.

Your notch on the rear of the horn is a bit too wide for your horn pattern.    Your bottom piece is not pulled up against the bottom the horn tight enough on the second horn.

I had the good luck to work for a great saddle maker when I first got started and he told me pretty quick to be really picky about how a horn looks.  Everytime a rider looks down, he sees that horn. It is one of those things that shows a window to your workmanship.  It won't make the saddle less usable but it is something a discriminating buyer has a problem with if  it is not done well.

It will get easier, and all of us go through the learning stages.

 

[rktaylor]

Ron and Ken,

It seems like I fix one problem and then see the next. There are some things that Ken pointed out that need improvement, but it will have to be on the next saddle. I did get the bottom piece pulled up tighter, but that will definitely be a point of focus on the next saddle. I appreciate all the feedback.

Randy

[Ken Nelson]

I use most of the method taught in Harry Adam's book to cover horns-the bottom and filler.  One thing I do on it, is after I skive the cut out, I let the bottom piece dry and glue it with contact cement and rewet it before I put it on the saddle.  I glue the horn, and install the bottom piece before the glue sets up. If I have the filler and and "cap piece ready, by the time they are installed, the glue will be ready to make a tight bond on the bottom piece.  Let your choke strap set it tight against the bottom of your horn. Don't forget to tack your filler in place so the whole cover does not spin when someone dallies something heavy to it.

I make my cut in the filler and bottom  about a scant 1/8" narrower than the piece that goes in it.  I also don't skive that part of the cap and wings very much.  If you do, it will stretch and be too narrow to fill the cutout. 

I don't know if I do it right but counting all the horns I have recovered and new ones I have done, it is up over (and I am estimating here) 300 horns. I hope this helps someone a little bit. I hope I don't sound like I am being critical, I would like to help someone learn.  I don't know about a lot of types of saddles but I do know a lot about working saddles.  I build a lot of them and most of them go to some pretty darn good cowboys on very large ranches that use them hard. I don't advise anyone on pleasure, trail, cutting saddles or barrel saddles.  I am not qualified to comment on constructing them.   However,  There are a number of people that will give you a lot of advice on building a working ranch saddle that are unqualified to comment on building them. 

[oltoot]

Little bit but, if you don't sew the cap till last, you can pull and stretch things in line a little better from an additional direction

[Ken Nelson]

You are absolutely right! I would be lost without my duck bills and lasting pliers.