Chris623 Report post Posted October 14, 2020 Haven't glued the whole back onto the front and welt yet. Was (originally) planning on using the back as part of the HLS, as you call it but realized the overhang of the guard messed that up. So I did it differently. I've glued a skived piece the width of the back to the back of the welt that was tapered from the guard to about half the length of the blade. I plan then on the back making the HLS. I may have to put another shorter tapered spacer on this piece before doing that. Not sure if that makes sense, but I'm sure it'll work out. I understand what you are explaining, but I don't really like the look of sewing through two pieces and then into the back piece of the sheath to make the loop. I think it's unattractive doing it that way. Being new to this, I'm just making it up as I go, so humor me. It's a puzzlement, but I'm sure it'll work out just fine. I'll be sure and post pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 14, 2020 I think you are finding, as many of us have found out, 1. making an item from scratch is like a 3 dimensional jigsaw without either instructions or the box picture to guide us 2. its worse than chess, you need to think about things many stages ahead and plan on them, doing them in sequence when you least expect to have to do them 3. for every 'how do I?' question you'll get dozens and dozens of answers, and all can be perfectly correct Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
battlemunky Report post Posted October 14, 2020 Its such a fun puzzle though, hopefully :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris623 Report post Posted October 14, 2020 . "its worse than chess, you need to think about things many stages ahead and plan on them, doing them in sequence when you least expect to have to do them" Just found that out !!! Glued that tapered piece on the back WAY before thinking I needed to sew the HLS on! DUH !!! Had to cut it off and I'll get the back done and start playing a better game of chess! It IS a fun puzzle, battlemunky. Some good news...........................just got an email saying my makers mark has shipped. So I'll be able to use it on this sheath..................................that is if I'm proud enough of it to mark it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted October 14, 2020 6 hours ago, Chris623 said: I'm tempted to finish it. I dig the texturing. Also, finish it. You will discover that there are other little things you will learn as you go through the process. Better to learn them all on one sheath than to have 10 sheaths in various stages of completion that demarcate each lesson learned! Then when you go to make the next version, you have learned a lot of the lessons already and it will go much smoother. YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 14, 2020 38 minutes ago, Chris623 said: Some good news...........................just got an email saying my makers mark has shipped. So I'll be able to use it on this sheath..................................that is if I'm proud enough of it to mark it! And why would you not be proud of your first sheath, made all by yourself? Now, this is where ye need to think ahead - where are you going to put that 'makers' stamping? On the HLS or on the sheath back? cos the front is all nicely tooled. On the HLS or sheath back, its best to do the stamping afore ye sew it all up closed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris623 Report post Posted October 15, 2020 Makers mark is destined for the back of the sheath. And, yes, I know to do any stamping before I sew'er up. I'm already wondering how I'll finish it. The Buck handles are Black. The original sheath was black. Hmmm. I like browns and antiquing on sheaths. Oh well, that's way down the line. Makin' mistakes, correcting them and moving on is the best way to learn. So I tend to learn well! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris623 Report post Posted October 15, 2020 Update: Maker's mark is traveling within the Postal System and should be here Monday. Very timely for my first sheath, I'd say. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris623 Report post Posted October 15, 2020 (edited) Well, I'm learning, for sure. Pulled a stupid beginners blunder. Marked the back side of my sheath backwards!!! DUH! Is there any way to get ballpoint pen ink off the "top" side of leather? I've tried, Acetone and Mineral Spirits so far. Hate to throw away the leather and make another. Also, it's obvious (now) that ballpoint pen is the wrong thing to use to mark the leather. I can't see a lead pencil mark on the leather..............so what's a guy to use to mark with? Edited October 15, 2020 by Chris623 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 15, 2020 35 minutes ago, Chris623 said: . . . Marked the back side of my sheath backwards!!! DUH! Is there any way to get ballpoint pen ink off the "top" side of leather? I've tried, Acetone and Mineral Spirits so far. . . . The only stuff I've had success with is lacquer thinners, aka cellulose thinners 36 minutes ago, Chris623 said: Also, it's obvious (now) that ballpoint pen is the wrong thing to use to mark the leather. I can't see a lead pencil mark on the leather..............so what's a guy to use to mark with? I usually use a ball point pen to mark leather, but those marks are either cut away, skived away or they mark gouge lines - see the pattern The very worst to use is an indelible marker, aka a Sharpie. Even when you remove the ink the mark comes back as a ghost through you dye and finish Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris623 Report post Posted October 15, 2020 (edited) Thanks, Fred, I'll go give Lacquer Thinner a try. (........................as he walks off grumbling!) Well, I tried Lacquer Thinner. Didn't work. Also tried Zylene............and no luck there. What I've decided to do is to dye the back of the sheath a dark enough brown to cover up my newbie mistake and the front of the sheath a lighter golden brown. Guess that'll work. Not happy, but what's a guy to do??? Edited October 15, 2020 by Chris623 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retswerb Report post Posted October 17, 2020 Yep, if you can’t remove the ink then use a darker dye and be glad it’s the back side and not the front. I like your fortune cookie signature, very true! What I use for marking depends on what I’m doing. If I’m using a straightedge for layout I usually use a scratch awl. For tracing I have a blunted awl that does ok, but the lines are sometimes hard to see. I’ve heard of others using a ball point with no ink, haven’t tried it myself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris623 Report post Posted October 17, 2020 I like Fortune Cookie Proverbs. Sometimes they are really insightful. For using carbon paper to trace patterns in my wood carving classes, I use a stylus with a point about the same size as a ball-point pen. But I don't want to use carbon paper on leather, do I? The stylus most likely would be useless for just the impression it would leave in the leather. I'll give it a try, but it will probably be ineffective unless the leather is cased. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
