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I'm confused about the purpose of some of these products


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Posted (edited)

Thanks, battlemunky.   I've got saddle soap, Fiebings Black dye and canvas on my shopping list for today after I finish working out at the gym.  I used some denim material yesterday and it did a pretty decent job on the slicking.

Since I've already slicked the edges, should I re-sand so the dye will penetrate?

Edited by Chris623

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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Posted
1 hour ago, Chris623 said:

Since I've already slicked the edges, should I re-sand so the dye will penetrate?

Probably not necessary.  Sometimes putting dye on a rough edge doesn't give great results anyhow, so fairly smooth is ok.  If it doesn't take, then use some 320 or finer to lightly buff the edge.

YinTx

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Posted
2 hours ago, Chris623 said:

Since I've already slicked the edges, should I re-sand so the dye will penetrate?

 

1 hour ago, YinTx said:

Probably not necessary.  Sometimes putting dye on a rough edge doesn't give great results anyhow, so fairly smooth is ok.  If it doesn't take, then use some 320 or finer to lightly buff the edge.

YinTx

I was going to say the same. Should work just fine.

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Posted

Stopped by my buddies shop, (local shoe repair) and even though I bought some Pro Black Dye, he recommended I leave it as is.  Said he'd be very afraid it would bleed into the dye of the face or back of the sheath.  Hmmmmmm.  As a newbie, he has me concerned.  Should I be?

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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Posted

Now that there's some oil in the leather at the edges, it could bleed. The tool you use to apply the dye makes a big difference. A standard wool dauber isn't it. Even a Q tip can be tricky. Anything that is fairly firm and lays flat,  and only contacts the very tip of the edge will help keep the dye from creeping down past the edge onto the front or back. I use a 1/4 inch square piece of hard felt, in the form of a "stick". Kept fairly dry and not sopping with dye.

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Posted

Now that's a neat trick.  Felt dye brush.  Would never have thought of that............but it makes sense.  So many little tricks to learn.

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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Posted

battlemunky, did you mean liquid glycerin saddle soap, or the bar type glycerine saddle soap?

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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Posted
1 hour ago, Chris623 said:

Stopped by my buddies shop, (local shoe repair) and even though I bought some Pro Black Dye, he recommended I leave it as is.  Said he'd be very afraid it would bleed into the dye of the face or back of the sheath.  Hmmmmmm.  As a newbie, he has me concerned.  Should I be?

Yes.

For that reason I only use for edging the same colour as the front & back

You can get 'edge paint' which is thick and doesn't bleed down off the edge

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted

I originally had Brown Fiebing's Edge Kote on it.  By "paint" do you mean like their Black Edge Kote?

Chris

"All things are difficult before they are easy." 

                                          (Fortune Cookie Proverb)

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Posted
1 hour ago, Chris623 said:

battlemunky, did you mean liquid glycerin saddle soap, or the bar type glycerine saddle soap?

The bar. Fiebings has pure glycerin. I could only find blend on the soap making grade stuff of which glycerin was 3rd to 7th in order on the list.

There is indeed edge paint. I have some but don't like it. It tends to peel. If you look at the designer bags you'll see it all over the purse. It works well for chrome tanned leather since it doesn't burnish, even still I leave it raw since it is prone to failing.

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